A typical gravity-flush toilet in an RV bathroom. These toilets use a foot pedal or handle to release a small amount of water and drop waste directly into a holding tank below.Choosing the right off-grid toilet can feel overwhelming. If you’re new to off-grid living or camper life, you might be unsure which sanitation solution will best fit your needs. There are many toilet types – from simple bucket toilets to high
Choosing the right off-grid toilet can feel overwhelming. If you’re new to off-grid living or camper life, you might be unsure which sanitation solution will best fit your needs. There are many toilet types – from simple bucket toilets to high-tech incinerators – each with their own pros, cons, and ideal uses. At Astra, we’ve been through this journey. In designing our Astra A1 off-grid camper, we evaluated all major toilet options (we ultimately chose a Separett Tiny composting toilet for its balance of convenience and sustainability). Now, we want to guide you through the world of off-grid toilets, helping you make an informed choice for your situation.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll break down the most popular off-grid toilet types – how they work, what they require, and who they’re best for. We’ll also compare key features like mobility, water use, and cost in a handy table, and give real product examples for each category. By the end, you’ll have a clear understanding of your options and confidence to choose the toilet that will keep your off-grid life comfortable and worry-free.
Gravity-flush toilets are very similar to the regular flush toilet you’d find in a home. They use water to flush waste straight down into a holding tank or septic system using good old gravity. These are common in RVs (especially larger ones) and in off-grid cabins with septic tanks.
A typical gravity-flush toilet in an RV bathroom. These toilets use a foot pedal or handle to release a small amount of water and drop waste directly into a holding tank below.
How it works: In an RV, a gravity toilet is usually mounted right above the “black water” holding tank. You press a foot pedal or handle to rinse the bowl with a bit of water and open a valve, and waste falls directly down into the tank. In a cabin, a standard toilet might flush into a buried septic tank or cesspit. No pumps are needed – gravity does the work.
Pros: Gravity-flush toilets are easy to use and feel the most like a conventional home toilet. They generally have few moving parts (so less can go wrong), and they effectively isolate waste in a sealed tank below, helping contain odors (though tank chemicals or treatments can help too). They’re a time-tested solution – many off-grid homes with septic systems or larger RVs use them.
Cons: They do require water to flush (albeit a lot less than a home toilet – often about 0.5 to 1 gallon per flush). If you’re in a dry off-grid location, the water usage is a consideration. They also need a holding tank or septic system – which means you’ll have to deal with that waste eventually. In an RV, that means finding a dump station to empty the black tank. In a cabin, it means maintaining a septic system or arranging for pump-out. Mobility-wise, gravity toilets are installed fixtures, not portable. They work great in a fixed location or in an RV that’s built for them, but you wouldn’t use one in a tent or move it around easily.
Top Examples: The RV industry has many gravity-flush toilets. A popular model is the Dometic 310 RV Toilet (around $200, by Dometic) – a ceramic bowl toilet with a foot pedal flush. It offers a home-like seat height and good flushing with minimal water. For off-grid cabins, a normal porcelain toilet (e.g. an American Standard gravity toilet) can be used in combination with a septic or holding tank system, but the cost there is mostly in the septic installation.
Cassette toilets are a special type of RV toilet that flush into a small removable holding tank. They are common in camper vans, small RVs, and boats – especially in Europe. The toilet itself is fixed in place in your bathroom, but the waste collects in a small “cassette” tank that you can slide out from an access door (usually on the vehicle’s exterior) and carry to a dump point or regular toilet for emptying.
How it works: A cassette toilet looks like a normal compact toilet inside, often with a flush button or pump that uses a bit of water to rinse the bowl. The waste goes into a sealed cassette (generally 5–6 gallons capacity). When it’s full, you unlatch the cassette and pull it out from the outside of the van/RV. The cassette has a spout for emptying, so you can dump the contents into a public toilet, dump station, or other approved facility, then rinse and slide it back in. Some cassette systems draw flush water from the vehicle’s fresh water tank; others have an independent small water reservoir.
Pros: Cassette toilets are very convenient for mobile use because you can empty the tank easily without needing a dedicated dump station hose. You can take the cassette to any restroom or outhouse – you’re not limited to RV dump sites. They are also relatively compact. They do use water to flush, but typically just a few ounces per flush, so they are fairly water-efficient. Installation in a van or RV is simpler than a full black-tank system since the cassette is self-contained.
Cons: The waste tank is small, so you’ll be emptying it quite often (every couple of days with regular use by two people). While removal is easy, you still have to handle the waste tank manually, which some folks find unpleasant (though the better cassettes seal well and have pour spouts to minimize mess). Odor control usually relies on adding chemical deodorants to the cassette, similar to a portable toilet. Also, cassette toilets are installed units – not something you just pick up and move without installation. They require cutting a hole in the wall of your van/RV for the service door, so it’s a commitment for a vehicle build.
Top Examples: A widely used cassette toilet is the Thetford C-200/C-220 series (around $600, by Thetford). These are electric-flush cassette toilets found in many camper vans and European motorhomes. Thetford’s cassette systems are known for reliability and have indicator lights for tank level. Dometic also offers cassette models like the CTS-4110. Typically, cassette toilets cost a few hundred dollars and come as a complete set with the access door and tank.
Portable chemical toilets are the classic camping toilets often called “porta-potties.” These are completely self-contained units made of plastic that you can carry – popular for tent camping, small boats, or as a temporary solution. They consist of a toilet seat and bowl on top of a small fresh water tank and a detachable waste tank underneath. They use a chemical solution in the waste tank to break down waste and control odor.
How it works: You fill the top reservoir with a few gallons of fresh water (often with a bit of rinse additive). Before first use, you add a dose of special toilet chemical (deodorant and enzyme) plus some water to the bottom waste tank. When you flush (via a manual pump or bellows on the unit), a bit of water rinses the bowl and gravity pulls waste into the lower tank. A valve closes to seal the waste tank and reduce smells. When the tank is nearing full (most have about 3–5 gallon capacity), you detach it, carry it by a handle, and pour it out into a toilet or dump station, then rinse and reuse.
Pros: Portable toilets are truly portable – no installation required. You can take them anywhere: camping, in a tent, as an emergency toilet, or in a van that doesn’t have a built-in unit. They’re inexpensive (typically $100 or less) and widely available. They provide a flushing action and a closed waste tank, so they feel a step up from a simple bucket. With the chemicals, they manage odor fairly well when used correctly. No power is needed, just water and chemicals.
Cons: Like cassette systems, you’ll need to empty the tank manually, and it can be a bit of a chore (waste tanks can be heavy and you have to be careful to avoid splashes). You must keep buying the toilet chemicals and adding them for each tankful. Also, they do use water for flushing (though sparingly), and the fresh water and waste tank capacities limit how many uses you get before a refill/empty cycle (for example, a Thetford Porta Potti 365 holds about 5.5 gallons of waste – roughly 50-60 uses). Long-term daily use by multiple people would mean very frequent dumping, so these are best for light or occasional use. Comfort is also a bit lower – they are small and have a low seat height (though some larger models have more adult-friendly sizing).
Top Examples: The Thetford Porta Potti is the iconic model in this category. For instance, the Porta Potti 365 (~$150, by Thetford) is a family-size unit with a 5.5 gal waste tank and a piston pump flush. It’s a popular choice for van campers and boats. Another example is the Camco Portable Travel Toilet (around $130, by Camco), which is similar in design. These units typically range from $80 to $150. They are affordable entry-level solutions – indeed, many off-grid enthusiasts start with a Porta Potti to test the waters (so to speak).
Macerating toilets take a flush toilet and add a powerful grinder (macerator) pump to chew up the waste and pump it out. They’re designed to send waste water through narrow pipes or uphill to a remote holding tank or sewer connection. In off-grid contexts, macerating toilets are often used in boats, some RVs, or off-grid cabins where a normal gravity feed isn’t possible (for example, if the toilet must be located away from the main septic or down in a basement).
How it works: When you flush, the toilet (usually an electric flush mechanism) first uses water to rinse the bowl. The waste is then pulled into a chamber with rotating blades that macerate (grind) everything into a slurry. A built-in pump immediately pushes this slurry out through a small hose or pipe to your holding tank or sewer line. The user experience is similar to a normal toilet flush (though you might hear the brief buzz of the macerator motor).
Pros: The big advantage is flexibility in installation. You can have a toilet below the level of your septic tank or located far away, and still move waste effectively. Macerating toilets allow off-grid builders to install a flush toilet in a basement, for example, and pump up to a sewer or septic. In an RV or boat, a macerating toilet lets you place the toilet away from directly above the waste tank (since it can pump horizontally or uphill to the tank). They also tend to use minimal flush water – often you can choose a “normal” or “low-water” flush mode. The maceration helps break waste down which can reduce clogs and make dumping easier.
Cons: These systems are more mechanical and do require power (electricity) to run the pump. If you’re truly off-grid with limited power, that’s a consideration (many RV/boat units run on 12V DC, drawing a few amps briefly). They also have more that can go wrong: pumps can fail or jam if inappropriate items are flushed. Maintenance or repair can be a headache (nobody likes servicing a clogged macerator). Additionally, you still need somewhere to send the waste – usually a holding tank or sewer hookup. So while the toilet itself can be compact, the overall system isn’t self-contained. Cost is another factor: macerating toilets are typically pricier than simple gravity toilets.
Top Examples: In marine and RV use, Dometic MasterFlush series toilets are well-known. For instance, the Dometic MasterFlush 7120 macerating toilet (~$600, Dometic) is a compact 12V unit for boats and RVs. It macerates and pumps waste to a remote tank and uses about 0.3–0.5 gallons per flush. For home/off-grid cabin use, the Saniflo brand makes macerating toilets (like the Saniflo Sanicompact at ~$1,000) that allow you to install a toilet in a basement or remote bathroom and pump to your main sewer/septic line. These systems give you flush toilet comfort, but be prepared for the electrical dependency and maintenance aspects.
Vacuum-flush toilets, famously used in airplane lavatories and some marine systems, use suction to move waste. In off-grid terms, vacuum toilets are found in some high-end RVs, yachts, and specialized off-grid setups. The idea is that a vacuum pump creates powerful suction that pulls waste out of the bowl and down into a holding tank using very little water.
How it works: A vacuum toilet typically has a sealing mechanism in the bowl. When you flush (often by pressing a button or foot pedal), a vacuum pump (or a vacuum reservoir that’s been pre-charged) creates suction that evacuates the contents of the bowl rapidly, sending it through small diameter tubing into a holding tank. A small amount of water is used to wet the bowl and aid the flush, but the vacuum pressure does the heavy lifting of waste removal. The waste is stored in a separate tank which is vented and emptied like any holding tank.
Pros: Ultra-low water use: Vacuum toilets can use as little as a pint of water per flush (just enough to rinse). This is great for conserving water off-grid. They also are very flexible in placement like macerators – you can have the toilet located away from the tank, even at a higher or lower level, because the vacuum can move waste sideways or upward. Odors tend to be very well controlled because the system is under vacuum (any leaks would suck air in, rather than letting smells out). Many users also report that vacuum flush toilets are very effective at clearing the bowl – no need for a second flush. The experience is usually clean and quick (with a characteristic whoosh!).
Cons: Complexity is the main downside. A vacuum flush setup requires a vacuum pump unit and often a vacuum accumulator tank, plus sensors and controls to maintain the vacuum. This means more components to install and maintain. The system needs power to operate the pump. If something fails (like a vacuum leak or pump issue), the toilet may become unusable until repaired. Also, like macerators, these still require a holding tank or somewhere for the waste – it’s not self-contained. Vacuum systems are usually expensive. They are often found in luxury contexts (yachts, aircraft, high-end motor coaches) – expect to pay a premium. Finally, installation is not trivial; hoses must be routed carefully to maintain vacuum integrity.
Top Examples: A classic example is the Sealand VacuFlush system (Sealand is now Dometic). The Dometic VacuFlush 5000 series toilets (~$1,500, Dometic) are common in marine applications. These systems use a foot-pedal porcelain toilet connected to a vacuum generator. In RVs, some manufacturers like Prevost or Airstream have offered vacuum flush in their coaches for that at-home comfort with low water use. For most DIY off-grid builders, vacuum systems might be overkill, but they are an option if water is extremely scarce and budget is large.
Composting toilets are a favorite among off-grid tiny home dwellers, vanlifers, and eco-conscious cabin owners. These toilets do not use water to flush away waste. Instead, they collect solid waste in a chamber along with peat moss or coconut coir (a dry carbon material) and allow it to begin a composting process. Liquid waste is usually separated out (urine diversion) to keep the solids dry and reduce odor. Over time, the solid waste breaks down into compost. These units are self-contained, meaning you don’t need an external sewer or septic – you periodically empty the finished (or semi-finished) compost and dispose of it properly (often by further composting outdoors or bagging and trashing if local rules require).
How it works: When you “go” in a composting toilet, liquids and solids are directed to different places (most designs have a diverter that sends urine into a front bottle or tank, while solids drop into a bottom chamber). After each solid use, you add a scoop of peat moss or coco coir into the chamber to cover the waste – this adds carbon and eliminates odor and excess moisture. A vent fan continuously draws air through the unit and outside, drying the contents and venting any smells. Solid waste accumulates in the chamber, where a mixture of oxygen, warmth, and the added fibrous material starts composting it. Many units have a crank to stir or mix the solids, promoting aeration. Urine, on the other hand, collects in a separate bottle or drains away; since urine can create smells if mixed with solids, separating it makes the system work much better. Depending on usage, you empty the urine bottle every couple of days (it can be poured out in a safe location or diluted for use as fertilizer in ornamental gardens). The solid bin needs emptying much less frequently – perhaps every few weeks to months, once it’s getting full and the contents have partially broken down.
Pros: Composting toilets are waterless, a huge advantage for off-grid living where water is precious. They also don’t require a septic system or sewage hookup – you manage the outputs yourself. When functioning properly, a good composting toilet is almost odorless (a slight earthy smell at most). They are generally very environmentally friendly; you’re literally turning waste into a form of compost instead of polluting water with it. It’s a self-contained system, meaning all you need are the consumables (peat/coir and maybe power for the fan). Maintenance is not difficult – mostly emptying and cleaning – and you avoid dealing with raw sewage or chemical-laden waste. For many off-gridders, composting toilets offer true independence from traditional infrastructure.
Cons: Maintenance and learning curve: Using a composting toilet properly does require following the rules (adding cover material each time, keeping the liquids container emptied, etc.). You’ll need to be comfortable handling the waste when emptying the solids – by the time you empty, it’s much drier and partially composted, but it’s not garden-ready compost (often it still needs further composting or safe disposal). Odor can be an issue if the unit is undersized for the number of users or if something isn’t done right (for example, not enough carbon material, or a fan failure). Most composting toilets require a 12V or 110V connection for a small air fan – it’s a tiny draw (like 2-5 watts), but worth noting for a completely power-less cabin. Also, initial cost is relatively high compared to a simple portable toilet. And though the term is “composting,” realize that in these self-contained units, by the time you empty them you don’t usually have fully composted humus – that would take many months. You either continue composting the material in an outdoor composter or dispose of it (according to local regulations). This management of the output is a task you must be willing to take on. In short, composting toilets trade “flush-and-forget” for “manage-it-yourself.”
Top Examples: Two of the most popular brands are Nature’s Head and Separett. The Nature’s Head Composting Toilet ($1,000, Nature’s Head Inc.) is a well-known model often used in boats and tiny homes. It’s robust, with a crank mixer and a 12V fan. The Separett Tiny ($1,000, by Separett) is another urine-diverting toilet especially designed for small spaces – it’s actually the model we chose for the Astra A1 camper. The Separett Tiny has a sleek design and separate containers for liquids and solids, making it very user-friendly. Both of these eliminate the need for any water or sewer connection. Other notable models include the Air Head composting toilet (similar in function to Nature’s Head) and the Sun-Mar GTG (a very compact newer urine-separating toilet). Prices for quality composting units range roughly from $800 to $1,500. While that’s a sizable upfront cost, remember you won’t need to buy chemicals or use water, and they can last for many years.
DIY composting toilets are essentially the home-grown version of the above. Rather than buying a manufactured unit, many off-grid folks build their own simple compost toilet, often following the classic “humanure” design popularized by Joseph Jenkins (author of the Humanure Handbook). A basic DIY composting toilet might be as simple as a wooden box or bench with a toilet seat and a bucket underneath. After each use, you cover the waste with sawdust, peat moss, or other dry material. When the bucket fills, you swap it out and take the full one to an outdoor compost pile to decompose fully over several months.
How it works: Most DIY designs use a 5-gallon bucket as the receptacle for solids (sometimes with a urine-diverting system, sometimes not). You line the bucket (either with a compostable bag or nothing) and place it under a wooden seat. Each time solids are deposited, you sprinkle a generous scoop of sawdust, wood shavings, dry leaves, or similar carbon material on top. This coverage neutralizes odor and aids the compost process. Urine may be captured in a separate container via a front-diverter attachment, or in some DIY setups, people don’t separate – they rely on ample absorbent material, though that’s less ideal odor-wise. When the bucket is, say, 2/3 full, you put a lid on it and set it aside to compost (or empty it into a larger external compost bin), and put a clean bucket in the toilet. The full buckets or compost bin must sit for many months (often a year) to fully compost into safe humus. The end product, if done correctly, can be used as rich soil for non-food plants.
Pros: Extremely inexpensive and simple. You can build a DIY toilet with a bucket, some scrap wood for a box, and a toilet seat – potentially under $50. Even purchasing a premade kit or “lovable loo” style wooden cabinet is cheap compared to commercial toilets. No plumbing, no electricity, no water needed. Maintenance is straightforward (empty the bucket and keep a supply of cover material on hand). This approach is also scalable – you can have multiple buckets composting in rotation. For a remote off-grid homestead, DIY compost toilets are a sustainable closed-loop solution: human waste becomes compost to nourish the land (though note: composted humanure should be used cautiously and typically only on ornamental plants or trees, not directly on veggies).
Cons: This is the most hands-on option. You will be dealing with buckets of raw waste. If the idea of occasionally seeing or smelling yesterday’s business turns your stomach, this might not be for you. Odor can be perfectly minimal if managed well, but the margin for error is perhaps greater than with sealed manufactured units. You need a good system for composting the waste safely (which may attract flies or pests if not done properly). Also, there’s the social factor – some guests might not be comfortable using a “sawdust toilet.” In terms of mobility, carrying a bucket of waste to your compost pile is fine if it’s a short walk, but not something you’d do if you were traveling around (this method suits a fixed location like a cabin or long-term camp). Finally, regulations: in some areas, local regulations frown on or prohibit DIY composting of human waste, so be aware of your local rules.
Top Examples: This category doesn’t have brand-name products, but there are kits and plans available. The Lovable Loo is a well-known simple design (a wooden box to hold a 5-gallon bucket) that you can build or sometimes buy as a kit. Another is Toilets for People’s DIY Kit (~$395, by TFP), which provides a urine-diverting seat, fan, and other components – you supply the enclosure and bucket. Many people simply DIY with a bucket and a seat lid (the Luggable Loo snap-on toilet seat, about $15, can turn any bucket into a basic toilet). For those with woodworking skills, building a nice cabinet for the bucket can make it more user-friendly. Despite the humble nature, a well-managed DIY compost toilet can be quite effective – plenty of off-grid families have used them for years as their primary toilet.
This overlaps with DIY composting toilets, but “bucket toilets” deserve a mention on their own. The quintessential example is a bucket toilet used with disposable liners – the simplest of all toilets. It’s exactly what it sounds like: a 5-gallon bucket, often fitted with a toilet seat/lid, which collects waste. Sometimes these are used with absorbent bags or gel powders and disposed of in the trash after use. This category also includes foldable camp toilets that hold a bag. Essentially, these are dry toilets without any processing – they just hold the waste until you deal with it.
How it works: Line a sturdy bucket with a heavy-duty garbage bag (or a specialty bag that contains gelling powder). Do your business in the bucket. You might sprinkle sawdust, kitty litter, or a commercial absorbent powder to cover solids and soak up liquid. When done, snap the lid closed (to control odor until disposal). To “flush,” you essentially tie up the bag and remove it, then replace with a fresh bag. If using a continuous bag system, you might push the waste down and twist-tie the bag. Some people use bucket toilets without bags, instead treating them like a super basic composting toilet – adding cover material and later dumping/cleaning the bucket. But for many campers, the bag method is simpler: after use, you seal the bag and throw it in the trash (often these bags are marketed as landfill-safe and odor-sealing).
Pros: It’s dirt cheap and extremely portable. A bucket toilet can be used anywhere – from a campsite to as an emergency backup in a house during a power outage. No infrastructure needed. If bags are used, there’s virtually no cleaning – just throw the bag away. Modern gel-based bag systems can even solidify liquids and lock in odor surprisingly well. This simplicity and low cost make bucket toilets a go-to for short-term or backup use. Preppers and campers often keep one around (one brand name is literally the “Luggable Loo,” a $25 five-gallon bucket with a snap-on toilet seat lid). Also, no water or power is required at all.
Cons: This is not a luxury bathroom experience by any means. You might get odors between uses if you don’t cover or contain things well. Sitting on a bucket isn’t as comfy as a real toilet (though the snap-on seat helps). If you’re not using bags, you’ll have to manually empty or wash out the bucket – unpleasant to say the least. If you are using bags for everything, you have to continuously buy those consumables (and there’s an environmental impact to tossing all those plastic bags full of waste). Also, disposing of bagged human waste in the trash may or may not be permissible depending on local waste regulations (and frankly, it’s not ideal hygienically, though gel and odor control has improved this). In a nutshell, bucket toilets are best for very occasional use, emergencies, or ultra-rugged camping. Many people with off-grid cabins use a bucket toilet as a stopgap until they install a better system, or as a backup for guests.
Top Examples: The classic is the Reliance Luggable Loo ($30, Reliance Products), which is literally a 5-gallon bucket with a toilet seat/lid combination. It’s widely sold at outdoor stores and is highly reviewed as a simple solution. Pair it with Double Doodie waste bags (gel-lined bags by Reliance or a competitor) and you have a basic system. Another variant is the Cleanwaste GO Anywhere Toilet ($80) – a foldable tripod toilet that holds a waste bag; it’s portable and popular with backcountry rafters and campers. But at the end of the day, a bucket is a bucket – you can improvise one yourself at almost no cost. Just remember to stock up on sawdust or bags, and you’re good to go.
Bagging or wrapping toilets are an innovative sub-category that encapsulate waste in a bag after each use, sealing away the mess and odor. Instead of holding waste in a tank or composting it, these toilets basically bag each “flush” individually. This includes toilets like the Laveo Dry-Flush (which is popular in RVs and vans) and systems like the Wrappon that were developed for military use. It also covers use of special gel bags (like the WAG bag systems). We’ve partly touched on this with bucket toilets using bags, but here we’re talking about more engineered solutions that make the bagging automatic or cleaner.
How it works: The Laveo Dry-Flush, for example, uses a cartridge of material (a metallic bag tube). After you use the toilet (no water involved), you press a button and the machine cleverly wraps and seals the waste in layers of bag material, pulling it down into a lower compartment. After about 15 uses, the cartridge is full – you open the unit and take out what looks like a big sausage of wrapped waste, and throw it in the trash, then insert a new cartridge. Other systems like Wrappon use a heat-sealing mechanism: each use is sealed in a plastic pouch automatically. Simpler versions like the GO Anywhere kits require you to tie up the bag by hand. The common theme is each use gets isolated in a separate bag.
Pros: These toilets are completely waterless and very user-friendly in terms of immediate cleanliness. There’s no liquid to splash or slosh, and no need to see or smell what’s left from previous visits – everything gets neatly wrapped. Odor control is excellent, since waste is sealed after each go. They’re also portable in the sense that most are self-contained units (the Dry-Flush looks like a lightweight plastic toilet, runs on battery, and can be placed anywhere). Maintenance is simply disposing of sealed bags and replacing cartridges – no sewage handling or compost chore. This can be a great relief for people who find composting toilets or cassette dumping too yucky. Bagging toilets often shine in extreme cold (where composting fails) or situations where plumbing and water are impossible (some disaster relief operations use them).
Cons: The convenience comes with ongoing cost. The proprietary bag cartridges or sealing materials are not cheap – for instance, each Dry-Flush cartridge is around $80 and provides ~15 flushes, so you’re paying on the order of $5+ per flush. That can add up quickly for daily use (imagine 2 people full-time, maybe 60-90 flushes a month, that’s several hundred dollars in cartridges monthly!). These toilets also rely on a supply of those consumables; you’d need to stock up. In addition, some need power: Dry-Flush uses a battery for the motor (though it’s rechargeable and can handle dozens of flushes per charge), Wrappon requires electricity to heat-seal, etc. Another consideration is that you end up with a lot of plastic bag waste – environmentally, it’s not as green as composting or even chemical toilets. And final disposal means putting human waste into the trash, which while feasible, might not sit right with everyone or every locale. Lastly, the units themselves are somewhat expensive, typically in the $700–$1,000+ range, and there is more mechanical complexity (though generally they’re pretty robust and simple mechanically).
Top Examples: The Laveo Dry-Flush (~$900 for the unit, by Dry-Flush) is a top example used in many camper vans. It looks like a toilet, but no liquids or additives are needed – just the cartridge. It’s very popular among those who want a no-mess, no-odor solution and are willing to pay per use. Another example is the Wrappon Green or Wrappon Trekker (around $1,000+), which is a Japanese-developed field toilet that seals each waste packet; it’s been used by the military and disaster responders. On the simpler end, the Cleanwaste WAG Bag system (as mentioned under bucket toilets) is a manual bagging approach – the GO Anywhere folding toilet with gel bags is around $80 for the frame and ~$2 per bag kit. These are great for short stints. In summary, bagging toilets solve the immediate issues of waste handling elegantly, making them a favorite for short-term off-grid trips or those with very low tolerance for odor/maintenance – but the ongoing consumable needs mean they’re not the cheapest to live with full-time.
Evaporative or desiccating toilets are a type of waterless toilet that focuses on drying out the waste to reduce its volume and smell, sometimes converting it into dry compost-like material. They often use some electric heat or fan to speed up evaporation of liquids. These are somewhat similar to composting toilets, and indeed many composting units use evaporation as part of their process. But here we’re referring to toilets designed primarily to dry and evaporate, sometimes called “incinerating toilets lite” (though they don’t burn, they just dehydrate). An example would be large-capacity composting units like a Sun-Mar that has a heater to evaporate moisture, or systems like the Enviro Loo which use sun and wind to dry waste.
How it works: In a typical evaporative toilet, solids and liquids might not be fully separated, but the unit provides ventilation and often a heating element to dry everything. By removing the moisture, the waste is reduced to maybe 10-20% of its original volume (essentially a dry fecal matter that is much less offensive and lighter). Some units have a slow-turning drum or tray where waste sits and air passes over. Others use solar heat via a vented black container exposed to sunlight. Eventually, the dried solids accumulate and must be removed – they may or may not be biologically “composted,” but they are at least dehydrated and largely odor-free.
Pros: By evaporating urine and water content, these toilets minimize how often you have to empty the waste. Liquids mostly go into the air as water vapor (in a vent), rather than into a tank you need to dump. Odor is reduced because bacteria don’t thrive without moisture. Some evaporative toilets can handle a higher continuous workload (like families or public use) better than small self-contained composters, because they are actively removing moisture which is the main bottleneck in composting capacity. If the unit has electric heat, the process is faster (some have thermostatically controlled heaters). If it’s solar (like the Enviro Loo), it uses renewable energy passively – completely off-grid – to achieve drying. These systems are also fully waterless and chemical-free, aligning well with eco-friendly goals. Maintenance is usually just occasional removal of dry waste and perhaps cleaning out any urine mineral deposits if not fully evaporated.
Cons: The need for ventilation and possibly power means installation is a bit involved. A big evaporative toilet (like an outdoor composting unit) might require a large chamber or pit and proper vent stacks. Electric ones will draw more power than a simple composting toilet’s fan – for example, a Sun-Mar electric unit uses a heater that can draw a significant wattage when on (though some only use it intermittently or have a 12V fan option). Without water, there can be some odor if the drying isn’t keeping up (imagine a hot stew of waste if the heater fails – not pretty). Also, removing the dried waste is still a task; it might be reduced, but it hasn’t vanished. Many units suggest removing composted material annually or semi-annually, which can be fairly heavy labor for large systems. And cost-wise, these tend to be on the higher end, similar to or more than ready-made composting toilets. They’re often designed for cottages or semi-permanent setups rather than small RVs (some are physically large).
Top Examples: Sun-Mar is a company that makes several evaporative/desiccating style toilets. The Sun-Mar Excel (around $1,900, Sun-Mar) is a self-contained unit that can be electric or non-electric. The electric version has a heater and fan to evaporate liquids; it’s rated for continuous residential use. Another product is the Sun-Mar Centrex systems – these are central composters that sit below the toilet and use electricity to assist evaporation for higher capacity (often paired with a low-flush toilet in the bathroom). On the passive side, the Enviro Loo (made in South Africa) is a waterless system that uses solar heat and wind to dry waste in a buried container – it has been installed in thousands of locations worldwide and works completely off-grid with no power or water. These larger systems aren’t cheap (often over $2,000 including all components), but they can handle heavy use. If you have a remote cabin with a bit of sunshine and want a non-electric, odorless solution, an Enviro Loo or similar might be a great fit (they are often used in public remote toilets at parks). For a typical tiny house, many people stick with the smaller composting units (previous category) since they vent and dry decently. But it’s good to know evaporative models exist, especially if you anticipate a lot of liquid to deal with or want to minimize manual intervention.
“Solar toilets” usually refer to advanced prototypes or systems that leverage solar energy to sanitize waste. In practice, many so-called solar toilets overlap with the evaporative/desiccating category or even the incinerating category (using solar to heat). There have been experimental toilets (from research contests, etc.) that use solar concentrators to literally sterilize and char waste. For off-grid consumers, a solar toilet might mean a unit that runs on solar power or uses the sun’s heat to operate.
How it works: One approach uses solar thermal energy. For example, a design might have parabolic solar collectors focusing sunlight to heat up waste to high temperatures, effectively incinerating or pyrolyzing it. Another approach is the solar dehydration like Enviro Loo, which we discussed – using a black solar-heated chamber to dry waste. There are also toilets with solar-powered electrical components (like a fan or pump powered by a small solar panel, which is more a power source detail than a toilet type). Some futuristic models separate urine and use solar evaporation to distill it, or use UV light for disinfection.
Pros: Solar toilets, in theory, use free energy from the sun to do the job. That means potentially zero ongoing energy cost and no reliance on grid or fuel. In remote sunny climates, this is a big plus. For instance, the solar dehydrating designs are completely off-grid and require no water or electricity at all to function. High-temperature solar designs could even turn waste into pathogen-free charcoal-like material or ash, achieving sterilization without external fuel. In humanitarian contexts, solar toilets promise a clean solution where infrastructure is lacking, by harnessing abundant sunlight. The eco-friendliness is a key advantage – using renewable energy and not contaminating soil or water.
Cons: Many solar-based solutions are still experimental or not widely commercially available to the average consumer. They might require specific climate conditions (lots of sun!) to work effectively. If it’s cloudy or cold, performance drops. Solar thermal systems can be complex to build/maintain (mirrors, moving parts to track the sun, etc.). Some also have higher up-front cost due to the technology. In terms of user experience, a solar toilet might not be fundamentally different from a composting or incinerating toilet – it’s more about how it processes waste behind the scenes. Another con is scaling: solar solutions might work great for small volumes, but for a family using it daily, you need sufficient solar collection area and perhaps backup processing for when sun is inadequate. Lastly, because few off-grid homeowners use purely solar toilets yet, you might not find as much support or ready products – often you’d be working with specialized suppliers or even DIY plans.
Top Examples: One example is the Enviro Loo (discussed above), which could be considered a solar toilet since it uses solar heat and wind, requiring no other power. There was also a notable prototype from a Caltech team (funded by the Gates Foundation’s “Reinvent the Toilet” challenge) that used solar power to drive an electrochemical reactor to break down waste – very high-tech, though not commercial yet. Ecojohn, an incinerating toilet manufacturer, offers a “Solar Incinerator Toilet System” where solar panels power the incineration process – effectively making an incinerating toilet off-grid. In the consumer realm, there isn’t a widely sold “plug and play” solar toilet aside from these; instead, people achieve solar-powered sanitation by hooking up things like composting toilets or incinerators to an off-grid solar power system. If you’re intrigued by cutting-edge designs, keep an eye on emerging tech, but if you need a solution now, you’re likely looking at the other categories and possibly integrating solar panels to power them (for instance, using solar to run an incinerating toilet, or solar to charge a battery for a dry-flush toilet, etc.). The bottom line: solar can augment many off-grid toilets, and some systems inherently use solar principles, but pure solar toilets are still an evolving niche.
Incinerating toilets are about as high-tech as it gets in off-grid sanitation. These devices burn waste at high temperatures, reducing it to sterile ash. They require a power source (electricity or gas like propane) to incinerate the waste, and they typically vent exhaust outside (so you’ll see a little vent pipe). Incinerators are great for cold climates where composting toilets might struggle, or anywhere you want a completely dry, odor-free final result with minimal handling.
How it works: An incinerating toilet usually has a small combustion chamber (often lined with stainless steel). Before use, you place a special paper bowl liner or tray to collect the waste (this keeps the chamber clean). After use, you press a button to start the incineration cycle. An electric heating element or propane burner then ignites and burns the waste (solid and liquid) at a high temperature, typically for 30 minutes to over an hour. The waste combusts and all that remains is a little ash (about a tablespoon or two of ash per use). This ash is sterile and can be simply thrown out. The toilet manages the process automatically – many incinerating toilets will let you use them several times before running a burn cycle (they accumulate waste in a holding chamber and then you run it, usually when a light indicates it’s needed). They have exhaust fans and catalysts to ensure fumes are safely vented and smells minimized.
Pros: When you’re done incinerating, the waste is gone – over 95% reduced to ash. No need to carry around a cassette or find a dump station, and no compost to haul. You only empty the ash occasionally (maybe once a week or less, depending on usage). They are hygienic – the high heat kills all pathogens, giving peace of mind especially in sensitive locations. Odor in the bathroom is minimal (during use it’s like a normal toilet, and during burn the smell is mostly outdoors via the vent, similar to a wood stove or dryer exhaust). They require no water or sewer – a huge plus for off-grid. For seasonal cabins (think winter cabin or ski hut), incinerators are excellent because they don’t freeze or require microbial activity. User experience is close to a normal toilet (just remember to start a cycle). If you have ample power or gas, this is a very hands-off solution day-to-day (no adding peat, no flushing chores).
Cons: Power consumption is the big one. Electric incinerating toilets use a lot of energy to generate the heat needed – often on the order of 1.5 to 2 kWh per cycle. Off-grid, that means you need a robust solar/battery setup or generator, or you opt for a propane-burning model. Propane incinerators reduce electrical load but will consume propane fuel with each burn. Either way, you’re paying for energy to burn waste. That also makes incinerators relatively expensive to operate per use compared to, say, a composting toilet that uses none (one estimate put it around $0.40 of electricity per use, and propane units likewise have a cost per burn). Initial cost is also the highest of any toilet type – these units commonly cost $3,000–$5,000 each, which is a serious investment. Additionally, incinerating toilets have more complexity (burners, sensors, fans) and will need regular maintenance to keep them running safely. The need to vent means you have to install them near an exterior wall or roof for the flue pipe. And while the smell of the exhaust is not like an outhouse, there is a noticeable odor outside during the burn (imagine a slight campfire or burning organic material smell) – proper ventilation height and location is key. Finally, capacity: incinerators can only handle so much use per hour. If you have a large family all needing the toilet in short succession, the unit might have to run back-to-back cycles and could become a bottleneck (some models advise avoiding consecutive use or have a cool-down period). In summary, incinerators solve the waste problem by effectively trading it for an energy problem – make sure you have the power and budget if you go this route.
Top Examples: The leading brands are Incinolet (electric, made in the USA) and Cinderella (made in Norway, comes in electric or propane versions). For instance, the Cinderella Comfort (electric model) is about $4,200 and burns each load to ash. The Cinderella Freedom is a propane model, great for truly off-grid cabins without big solar – it’s similarly priced around $4k and can do about 70 burns per 20 lb propane tank. The Incinolet starts around $3,500 for a basic electric unit; it’s been used in remote homes and even by the US National Park Service in some areas. Another brand, Ecojohn, makes incinerating toilets and even incinerator/composter hybrids. These toilets come with accessories like vent pipe kits and need proper installation. It’s a serious appliance. But for the right use-case (e.g. a remote Arctic cabin, or a tiny house where you absolutely don’t want to deal with waste), incinerating toilets are the ultimate all-in-one solution – just be ready to support that solution with energy and funds.
Biogas toilets are an amazing concept that turns human waste into biogas (methane) that can be used for cooking or heating, and also produces a liquid fertilizer byproduct. In essence, this is like having a mini sewage treatment plant (anaerobic digester) at your home. These systems are common in some parts of the world for agricultural use (e.g., using animal manure), and a few companies have adapted them for home use with toilet integration. A biogas system allows you to flush a toilet as normal (with a small amount of water) but instead of going to a sewer, the waste goes into a sealed digester tank. There, anaerobic bacteria break it down, releasing methane gas that is captured and stored for use.
How it works: A specialized toilet (usually a low-flush or even a vacuum-enhanced toilet) is connected via pipe to an anaerobic digester tank located outside (often buried or in a greenhouse). When you flush, waste and water flow into the digester. The tank is void of oxygen and full of certain bacteria that consume organic waste, producing biogas (which is roughly 60% methane, 40% CO₂). This biogas accumulates in an expandable storage dome or bag and can be piped to a gas stove or generator as fuel. The liquid effluent that remains in the digester is rich in nutrients – it can be drained off for use as fertilizer (often through a leach field or a manual valve). A popular kit for home use is by HomeBiogas, which supplies a compact digester plus a compatible toilet. The user just flushes like a normal toilet (they recommend using as little as 1.2 liters per flush, and only biodegradable toilet paper). Over time, you feed the digester not just your toilet waste but you can also add kitchen scraps, etc., to keep the bacteria fed. The produced gas is used for cooking on a special biogas stove or stored for later.
Pros: This is a closed-loop, sustainable system – you’re turning waste into usable cooking fuel! It addresses waste treatment and energy needs simultaneously, which is brilliant for an off-grid homestead aiming for self-sufficiency. Biogas digesters can handle multiple inputs (toilet, food scraps, even animal manure), potentially reducing all your organic waste. The gas production means less reliance on propane or other fuels for cooking. Odor from a properly functioning biogas digester is minimal – it’s all sealed, and the process, being anaerobic, actually tends to neutralize a lot of smell (the biogas has a mild odor but it’s piped away to burn). Unlike composting toilets, which require dry conditions, a biogas system welcomes a normal flush with water, so user experience on the toilet end is very conventional. Maintenance of the system is relatively low – you remove some sludge perhaps annually and ensure the bacteria are healthy (feeding them a balanced diet of waste). Also, by producing fertilizer, you close the nutrient loop for gardening (though typically you’d use that effluent on fruit trees or biomass crops rather than directly on root vegetables to be safe). It’s an eco-friendly solution that can support a larger family better than a small composter might, because continuous digestion can handle a steady input once established.
Cons: Initial setup is involved. You need space for the digester (a sunny area is best to keep it warm, unless you insulate or heat it). The cost for a ready-made system like HomeBiogas is around $1,000–$2,000 for the kit, which is actually competitive with many toilets – but you also need to do some plumbing, dig a hole or prepare a site, etc. It’s not a single appliance, but an integrated system. Biogas digestion works best in warm conditions; if you live in a cold climate, the digester will need to be kept warm (often above 60°F) to keep producing gas. That might mean building a greenhouse around it or insulating it, or accepting it will go dormant in winter. This sensitivity is why these systems are popular in tropical and subtropical regions. Time and consistency: the digester bacteria take a while to ramp up (when you start, you might seed with some manure or septic starter). It can be a month or more before gas production is good, so it’s not instant. You also can’t just leave it unused for months – the bacteria need regular feeding, so it’s better for a primary residence than a vacation cabin you visit infrequently. Another consideration is safety: biogas is flammable (essentially like natural gas), so you must follow guidelines for storage (the systems are low-pressure, which is safer) and use the gas with proper stove attachments. You also need to ensure the digester is set up to avoid any surface water contamination (though it’s sealed, any overflow should be managed). Lastly, while you do flush with water, you need a water source for that – albeit small (the HomeBiogas toilet uses about 1.2 L per flush, which is very low). So it’s not completely waterless, but pretty efficient.
Top Examples: The standout example is the HomeBiogas Bio-Toilet Kit 2 (~$1,720, by HomeBiogas). This kit comes with a 2-cubic-meter digester (suitable for a family of 4) and a special porcelain toilet that uses a foot pump to flush with minimal water and send waste to the digester. It also includes a biogas stove to burn the gas. Many off-grid homesteaders have started using these in recent years, and they report that a couple of daily toilet flushes plus some kitchen scraps can generate about 2 hours of cooking flame per day – pretty impressive! HomeBiogas also has a larger “Double” kit for bigger families ($2,700). In India, China, and Africa, various companies and NGOs offer small-scale biogas systems too, but HomeBiogas made it plug-and-play for consumers. DIY enthusiasts have also built their own biogas digesters using IBC totes or concrete tanks – which can be cheaper, but require know-how. If you’re excited about ultimate sustainability and have a homestead in a climate that can support it, a biogas toilet system is arguably the most comprehensive solution – it handles waste, gives you cooking gas, and yields fertilizer, truly embodying the saying “waste not, want not.” Just be prepared for the upfront work to set it up and commit to its care.
To help you compare these toilet types at a glance, here’s a summary table highlighting key factors: mobility (can it be moved or is it fixed?), whether it needs an external tank or plumbing, water usage, consumables required, and a rough price range:
| Toilet Type | Mobility | External Tank/Plumbing | Water Needed | Consumables & Power | Approx. Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gravity-Flush | Fixed (RV or Cabin) | Yes – requires black tank or septic | Yes (uses flush water) | Tank chemicals (optional) | Low ($100–$300 + tank) |
| Cassette | Fixed (in RV/van) | No separate tank (built-in cassette) | Yes (minimal flush) | Toilet chemicals for tank | Moderate (~$500–$1,000) |
| Portable Chemical | Very portable (camping) | No (self-contained) | Yes (manual flush) | Chemical packets, deodorant | Low ($50–$150) |
| Macerating | Fixed (RV, boat, cabin) | Yes – pumps to tank/sewer | Yes (flush water) | Power for pump; water | Moderate (~$300–$800) |
| Vacuum-Flush | Fixed (RV, boat, special) | Yes – remote vacuum tank system | Yes (very low use) | Power for vacuum; water | High (~$1,000+ system) |
| Composting | Portable or fixed | No (self-contained compost bin) | No (dry system) | Peat/coir; 12V fan power | Moderate (~$800–$1,500) |
| DIY Composting | Portable (bucket swap) | No (bucket; external compost heap) | No | Sawdust/cover material | Very low (~$50–$200) |
| Bucket/Dry | Very portable | No | No | Liners or sawdust | Very low (~$20–$50) |
| Bagging/Wrapping | Portable (battery units) | No | No | Bag cartridges; battery | Moderate (~$600–$1,000) |
| Evaporative/Desiccating | Fixed (cabin outhouse) | No (self-contained, vented) | No | Electricity (for heater/fan) | High (~$1,500–$3,000) |
| Solar (Drying) | Fixed (sun needed) | Varies (some have external unit) | No | Sunlight (perhaps a fan) | Varies (niche setups) |
| Incinerating | Fixed (vented) | No (just vent; ash tray inside) | No | Electricity or Propane; liners | Very High ($3k–$5k) |
| Biogas | Fixed (with digester) | Yes – digester tank & gas piping | Yes (small flush) | None (creates fuel); needs warmth | High (~$1k–$3k incl. system) |
Table: Comparison of off-grid toilet types by mobility, external requirements, water use, consumables, and cost.
As you can see, there is no one-size-fits-all best off-grid toilet. Each type shines in certain scenarios. Here’s a brief guide from Astra to help match the toilet to your needs:
For the Van Life Traveler or Sailor: If you live in a camper van, boat, or small RV and move frequently, a cassette toilet or portable chemical toilet is often the go-to. They balance convenience with low space requirements. You can empty a cassette easily at a rest stop. If you want to avoid dump stations altogether, a composting toilet (like Nature’s Head or Separett) is very appealing – many vanlifers install these to be truly self-contained and conserve water. If budget is tight, a simple portable toilet (Porta Potti) works fine for weekend trips. And if you absolutely hate dealing with waste or odors, a Dry-Flush (bagging toilet) provides a clean, albeit costlier, solution for life on the road.
For the Off-Grid Tiny Home, RV, or Cabin (Moderate Climate): Composting toilets are a top choice for off-grid tiny homes, RVs, or cabins, especially in moderate or warm climates. They require a bit of management but are eco-friendly and don’t need water or heavy infrastructure. The Astra A1 uses a composting unit for this reason – it aligns with a sustainable, mobile tiny home lifestyle. If you have land and don’t mind outdoor work, a DIY compost toilet + humanure compost pile is the lowest-cost sustainable route. If you prefer a more high-tech approach and have enough power, an incinerating toilet can work (be mindful of the power draw or fuel for propane).
For the Winter Cabin or Cold Regions: Composting slows down in cold weather, and you might not want to tromp outside to empty buckets in freezing temps. Here, incinerating toilets shine since they don’t rely on biology – many remote northern cabins use propane incinerators (like Cinderella) to avoid frozen waste. Another cold-weather champ is a vacuum or macerating toilet to a holding tank that you empty infrequently (though you’d need antifreeze management for the tank). Also, a well-insulated biogas system could work if you can keep it warm, but that’s challenging in deep cold. Sometimes the simplest in winter is a bucket toilet in a warm bathroom, combined with incineration or disposal – it might sound crude, but in extreme environments simplicity and reliability matter most.
For the Eco-Farming Homestead: If you have a bit of land and a garden, biogas toilets are incredibly attractive. They transform waste into cooking fuel and fertilizer – perfect for a permaculture setup. You do need the right climate or a greenhouse for the digester. If biogas is too much, composting toilets (commercial or DIY) fit well with homesteading values, giving compost for trees. You’re likely less squeamish and more motivated to handle composting on a homestead, so this can close the nutrient loop nicely.
For Temporary Camps, Overlanding, or Emergencies: When you’re camping for a week or outfitting an overland rig for short trips, bucket toilets with wag bags or portable chemical toilets are hard to beat. They’re cheap and don’t require install. Many overlanders carry a Luggable Loo or folding toilet for when nature calls in remote areas. The waste can be packed out. For disaster preparedness or home emergency use (like during a long power outage), having a bucket toilet and a stock of gel bags is a wise plan.
For Permanent Structures: Perhaps you’re building a permanent structure and budget isn’t the main issue – you just want a hassle-free, home-like experience. In that case, consider a flush toilet with a well-designed septic system (if land and regulations allow) – sometimes a septic is the simplest long-term if you can install it. If not, a vacuum-flush system with a large remote holding tank could give you a very normal toilet feel with once-a-month pump-outs. Or an incinerating toilet gives freedom from any plumbing and you just empty ash. These approaches cost more up front but make day-to-day use feel just like a normal house.
Remember, each solution will require some level of responsibility on your part – truly “flush and forget” is hard to achieve off-grid without either using a lot of resources (water, energy) or hiring a service to haul waste. The key is to choose a toilet that fits how much effort and expense you’re willing to invest for the comfort you expect.
In our journey to design autonomous living solutions (like the Astra A1), we learned that selecting the right toilet is a pivotal decision. It affects your daily comfort, your relationship with your environment, and even how you design the rest of your off-grid systems (water supply, power, waste handling). Astra’s advice is to be honest about your priorities: Is it more important to have a maintenance-free experience, or to minimize water and power use? Are you comfortable handling compost, or would you rather pay for consumables to avoid it? There is no wrong answer – it’s about what makes you feel at ease in your off-grid home.
We’ve also learned the importance of quality and authenticity. Whichever type you choose, invest in a reliable model. A toilet is not something to cut corners on – failures or constant bad smells will make off-grid life miserable. We personally vet the options we install (like the Separett in our A1) because we know our community relies on us to get it right.
Finally, make sure to comply with local regulations. Some places have rules about waste disposal, even for compost and graywater. For instance, dumping cassette toilet waste on the ground is illegal (and unsanitary) – you need an approved disposal method. Composting toilets might need Health Department approval in some jurisdictions. Incinerating toilets often require venting that meets code. As the guide on your off-grid adventure, Astra wants you not only to find the right toilet but to use it safely and responsibly.
In conclusion, off-grid toilets empower you to live and travel beyond the reach of plumbing. Whether you opt for a simple bucket or a space-age incinerator, you’re taking control of a fundamental part of daily life. Astra is here to support you with the knowledge and solutions you need. Embrace the choice that fits your lifestyle, and you’ll never view “going to the bathroom” the same way again – it’ll just be another aspect of the self-reliant, sustainable life you’ve built. Happy toileting, and happy trails from the Astra team!