Beginner Tips & Troubleshooting

No one is born an expert RVer – we all learn by doing (and often by making a few mistakes).
This section is like a quick-reference for common issues newbies face and how to solve or prevent them.
Plus a few extra tips that make camping life easier:

Essential Gear Checklist

Before heading out, double-check you have these items (some we’ve mentioned, but here in one place):

Tools

RV-specific tool kit including:
- tire iron
- bottle jack or leveling jack that can lift your rig
- torque wrench for lug nuts
- screwdrivers (both flat and Phillips)
- adjustable wrench
- pliers
- utility knife
- duct tape
- electrical tape
- zip ties
- WD-40
- multimeter (to test batteries or fuses)
- rubber mallet (for knocking in chocks or stakes)

Spare Parts

Extra fuses (your RV’s 12V system uses automotive blade fuses – have an assortment)
Replacement bulbs for any incandescents
Extra propane regulator (nice to have if yours ever freezes or fails)
Spare water pump (okay, maybe not carry that unless boondocking very remote, but at least a pump rebuild kit or diaphragm can be small insurance)
A length of each type of hose/tubing your RV uses + clamps (to fix a leak)
Spare drain plug for your water heater (they often plastic and can crack)
Extra sewer hose and hose seals
Maybe a spare fan belt for your truck/motorhome
Definitely a spare tire for trailer (many forget to check that)

Consumables

Propane (filled)
Fuel (full tank + jerry can if needed)
Water (full + some emergency bottles)
Toilet chemicals
RV toilet paper (or septic-safe thin TP)
Paper towels
Trash bags
Batteries for flashlights/detectors
Matches/lighter
Hand sanitizer (helpful for quick cleanup)

Emergency Gear

First aid kit (stocked)
Fire extinguishers (active and not expired)
Roadside flares or reflective triangles
Headlamp and flashlight (with extra batteries or a way to recharge)
Bear spray in bear country
Whistle (for signaling)
Basic compass and printed map in case electronics die
Weather radio (optional)

Comfort & Misc

Leveling blocks
Wheel chocks (don’t forget these – essential for trailers especially)
Water pressure regulator and filter
Surge protector
Sewer hose and support
Gloves for dumping
Spare key hidden somewhere (stash a spare key in a magnetic box under rig or give to travel partner)
Collapsible shovel (for fire pit, leveling, or you-know-what if desperate)
Axe or saw for campfire wood if allowed (and you know how to use safely)

Reference Info

Manuals for your RV and major appliances (you can download PDFs to phone)
This guide printed or saved (😉)
Emergency numbers (sheriff, ranger station, roadside assistance) written down
Personal medical info (health insurance card, list of any meds/allergies in wallet)

Books
Cards
Hiking GPS or offline phone maps
Camera
Binoculars

These aren’t “essential” to survive but essential to enjoyment.

Before each trip, also do a walkaround:
Check tire pressure (inflate to proper PSI – underinflation is leading cause of blowouts), test lights, test trailer brakes, make sure hitch is latched and pins in, etc.
Running through a departure checklist like an airplane pilot prevents common mishaps (like driving off with steps extended or antenna up – both expensive oopsies).
Some keep a checklist by the door to glance at each time.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

RV Won’t Start / Engine Issues

If motorhome engine won’t crank – could be battery. Use built-in “aux start” (if available) to connect house and chassis battery, or jump with car or booster pack.
If it cranks but no start, maybe fuel issue – did you run it out of gas? (Happens more often than you’d think in generators – they usually shut off with a quarter tank left).
Check engine gauges – if overheating, let it cool; if check engine light, pull over and read code if you have OBD reader or get to a shop if serious.
Carry extra coolant and oil; sometimes mountain driving causes overheating – turning off A/C and pulling over can avoid escalation.

Trailer Sway or Handling Issues

If your tow feels unstable (swaying at speed) – slow down immediately.
Make sure weight distribution hitch is set properly and trailer is level.
Check weight balance in trailer (more weight forward = less sway; aim ~10-15% of trailer weight on tongue).
If it’s very windy, consider waiting it out or driving slower.
Having a sway control hitch helps.
If sway starts (trailer fishtailing) – gently let off gas, manually activate trailer brakes via controller to pull trailer straight.
Do not slam truck brakes or oversteer.
Better to prevent by proper loading and not exceeding safe speed for conditions (sometimes that’s only 55 mph even if speed limit 70).

Electrical Malfunctions

Common ones:

“My RV 120V outlets are dead!”
If on generator/shore, check your breakers (both RV panel and pedestal).
Also check GFCI outlet (usually in bathroom or kitchen) – if it tripped, half your outlets might be out. Reset it.
If on inverter, maybe battery is low or inverter tripped off.
“12V lights flickering or pump not running.”
Check battery connections (loose or corroded wires can cause this).
Also check your 12V fuse panel – a blown fuse can kill a circuit.
If many things are dim, likely low battery – time to charge.
If plugged in and still no 12V, perhaps your converter (which charges battery and supplies 12V) failed – check converter fuses or breakers.
“Appliance won’t turn on.”
Many larger appliances (AC, microwave) have their own circuit breakers; ensure they aren’t tripped.
Microwaves sometimes plug into a hidden outlet in a cabinet – check that outlet’s GFCI status.
“My generator runs but no power to RV.”
Did you switch the transfer switch or plug the RV cord into the generator outlet (some older RVs you physically plug the cord into the generator receptacle on the rig)?
Check if the generator’s breaker on the genset itself is on.
“Battery not charging on shore power.”
Possibly a blown converter fuse or bad converter.
Use multimeter on battery – if it reads ~13.6–14.4V when plugged in, it is charging.
If only 12.0V and dropping, converter isn’t charging.
Could use alternate charging (solar or charger) until fixed.
Sometimes converters have internal fuses or resets.
Fuse blows repeatedly.
Means a short or overloaded circuit.
E.g., if the water pump fuse blows every time pump runs, the pump motor might be bad (drawing too many amps) or there’s a short in wiring.
Time to inspect wiring or replace pump.
Meanwhile, conserve water or use an alternate container.

Water System Issues

“Water pump runs but no water flows.”
Possibly air-locked: try opening a faucet to let air out, or the pump isn’t primed (pour some water into pump inlet via filter cap if accessible).
Also check that you didn’t accidentally set the winterizing valve or water heater bypass incorrectly after de-winterizing – if valves are not in proper position, pump might be sucking air or not routing water to faucets correctly.
Another cause: clogged pump filter – clean the little strainer at pump input.
“Pump surges or cycles when faucets are off.”
That indicates a small leak or pressure drop somewhere.
Could be toilet valve seeping, outdoor shower slightly open, or a leak in piping. Inspect for drips.
If none found and pump cycling is infrequent (like every 15 min), it might be just slight pressure creep – not serious but keep an eye.
A quick fix for minor cycling is to add a pump accumulator (small pressure tank) to smooth pressure – not essential though.
“No hot water / water heater issues.”
If propane water heater doesn’t ignite: check propane is on and tank not empty (common oversight).
Listen for clicking of igniter – if none, check the heater’s fuse and switch.
If it clicks but no whoosh of flame, could be air in gas line (ensure stove lights, meaning propane has filled lines, then try water heater again), or a dirty burner orifice (spider webs often – carefully clean burner tube).
Electric side: check if breaker is on and if heater’s element is not burned out (if you accidentally ran it empty on electric, the element likely fried – you’ll have to replace it).
“Leak! (water on floor)”
Track it down. Common leaks: under kitchen sink (loose fitting at faucet or trap), at water heater (pressure relief valve weeping – maybe normal if water got very hot; if excessive, add an expansion tank or replace valve), behind the UDC (where you connect hose – those plastic connectors can crack under stress, especially if you left water pressure on too high without a regulator).
Turn off pump or water source immediately to stop flooding, then address.
Many plumbing parts in RVs are semi-standard PEX tubing and fittings – having a few spare fittings and a tubing cutter can let you bypass a broken section quickly.
If no tools, you might temporarily cap a leaking line (some lines have valves or you can crimp a soft hose with vise grips as a short-term measure).
Mop up water to avoid damage (have towels dedicated for sopping spills).

Propane System

“Stove won’t ignite.”
If you just replaced a propane tank or haven’t used system for a while, there’s air in lines.
Light a stove burner and let it purge air until flame stays lit (could take several tries).
If none of the appliances get propane, maybe the main valve is closed (happens to best of us), or the auto-changeover regulator failed / is set wrong (flip the lever to other tank if you have dual, or check if tank is truly not empty).
If you suspect regulator issues (frosting up, etc.), you might need to replace it.
If one appliance works (fridge on propane) but stove doesn’t, stove burner orifice might be clogged – poke it clean with a small pin.
“Propane leak smell (rotten egg).”
Turn off main valves immediately.
Open windows.
Use your propane detector (should alarm if significant leak).
Try to locate – often a pigtail hose crack or a fitting.
Spray soapy water on suspect areas and watch for bubbles.
Tighten any loose flares (not too hard – just snug).
If a hose is leaking, close tank and replace that hose.
Don’t use open flame to check leaks (obviously!).
If leak is inside and you can’t quickly solve, keep gas off and ventilate, and perhaps call a technician.
“Fridge on propane won’t stay lit.”
Could be wind blowing out flame (shield the exterior vent if windy, or switch to electric mode until calm).
Or debris in burner – clean it gently.
Also, if you’re at altitude above ~7,000 ft, some fridges have trouble – they can soot up due to too rich fuel mix.
Some have an altitude adjustment, check manual.

HVAC

Furnace not lighting:
Often due to low battery (furnace fan must spin fast enough to allow ignition – if battery weak, it won’t and furnace “locks out” after a few tries) or again air in propane line.
Try shutting it off for a bit then on again.
You should hear fan, then clicking of igniter, then whoosh.
If clicks but no whoosh, maybe electrode misaligned (if comfortable, you can inspect burner – but be cautious).
Also ensure any duct or return isn’t blocked – furnaces have sail switches that detect airflow; if fan can’t move enough air (blockage or bad motor), it won’t light for safety.
If it lights but cycles off quickly, could be overheating (check that outlets are open) or control board issue.
When in doubt, use a backup heat source (electric space heater if power, or Mr. Heater Buddy carefully with ventilation) until fixed.
AC not cooling:
If AC runs but not cooling well, check filter (dirty filters greatly reduce performance, clean them monthly).
If air is cool but not cold, could be low refrigerant (not user-fixable, need HVAC tech, but RV ACs are usually sealed – low refrigerant means likely time to replace unit).
Also, too high voltage drop from weak campground power can cause AC to underperform – use your EMS to see voltage (if below ~105V under AC load, you risk damage; turn it off until voltage rises or use a transformer booster).
If AC doesn’t turn on at all, check breakers and thermostat settings (some thermostats require switching modes etc.).
Also some ACs have a delay (to protect compressor, they wait ~3 minutes to restart after off).
Fan issues:
AC fan rattling? Could be debris or a wasp nest in it – safely inspect from roof (unit off, remove shroud, clear obstructions).
Furnace fan squealing? That motor might be going – oiling is usually temporary fix, plan to replace if persistent.

Misc Troubles

Slide-Out stuck:
Check for obstructions first (inside and outside).
If motor runs but no movement, could be sheared pin or disengaged clutch – manual override may be needed (refer to manual; often a crank or a brake lever to release).
If slides are hydraulic and one won’t move, check hydraulic fluid reservoir (low fluid = issues) and look for leaks.
Electrically, check slide fuse or breaker (some have resettable breakers near battery).
In an emergency, you can carefully drive short distance with a slide stuck out (like to get to service), but go slow and watch width.
Jack Leveler won’t retract:
If auto-levelers fail, most have a manual release valve to drop the jacks (consult manual).
Or a handpump.
Don’t force drive with jacks down – you’ll likely damage them.
Awning won’t retract:
Common if a spring fails or mechanism binds.
You might have to manually roll it (two people can often coax it back in by carefully feeding fabric and rolling tube).
Secure it with ties/velcro for travel and fix properly later.
Electric awnings often have a manual override (a bolt you turn with a drill or crank).
Check manual before you need it, so you know where that is.
Hitch latch issues:
Sometimes hitches bind, especially if parked on uneven ground.
If trailer hitch won’t release ball, relieve pressure by backing up an inch (chalk wheels, then slight reverse to compress hitch, then truck in park, try unhitch – sometimes that frees the coupler).
Use chocks and tongue jack to lift a stuck coupler (the ball might pop out when pressure alleviated, so stand clear of pinch points).
A little lube on hitch moving parts helps.
Sway Control/Leveler bars noise:
If you hear creaking from weight distribution bars, that’s often normal – a little hitch grease on metal-to-metal contact surfaces (not the ball – ball always grease, but the trunnion bars where they insert can benefit from a touch of grease to quiet).
Tow vehicle concerns:
Overheating on grades? Turn off AC, downshift, and keep an eye on gauge. If it redlines, pull over and idle to cool.
Brake fade? Downshift and try engine braking to avoid riding brakes.
Transmission hot? Use lower gear and take breaks.
Basically, listen to your vehicle’s signs.

Best Practices for Long-term Off-grid Living

For those aiming to boondock for extended periods:

Establish Routines:
Maybe run generator an hour in morning to bulk charge and an hour in evening – a schedule neighbors can anticipate (and you maintain batteries well).
Or do solar tasks (like pumping water from creek via solar pump) midday when sun is strong.
Set a mental schedule for tank checks (e.g., every Sunday, check propane level and dump tanks if needed).
Community & Knowledge:
Connect with fellow boondockers (in person or forums) – they have tips for specific areas (like where the roving water truck vendor sells water in Quartzsite, etc.).
They might caravan with you for safety or just company.
Long-term off-grid can get isolating – plan occasional trips to town or invite friends out to join you for a bit.
Mindset:
Keep an adaptive mindset – things will go wrong (it’s an RV!).
The long-termer who thrives is the one who sees problems as puzzles, not trip-ruiners.
Forgot toilet chemicals? Try a cup of baking soda as substitute.
Rig’s solar not keeping up in winter? Maybe relocate further south or plan a campground stay to recharge and reset.
Rigidity doesn’t suit off-grid life – flexibility does.
Rig Maintenance:
Living in an RV full-time means lots of wear and tear.
Stay on top of maintenance: periodically tighten screws that wiggle loose on rough roads, lubricate hinges/slides, inspect roof seals and touch-up as needed (prevent leaks rather than chase them).
Exercise the generator under load monthly (keeps it healthy).
Clean solar panels when dusty (using a gentle long brush with soft water if possible, or at least a pole and cloth).
Sustainability:
Long off-grid stays teach you to be mindful of resources: water conservation becomes second nature (navy showers, etc.), you power things only when needed, you realize you can be very comfortable on surprisingly few watts/gallons.
It’s a rewarding learning curve and good for environment too.
Health:
In remote living, don’t neglect your health – keep a stock of any meds, find ways to stay active (hike, do some campground yoga, whatever), and watch for any stress signs (take a break to a full hookup park with hot showers and laundry if you feel burnt out by rugged living – nothing wrong with a reset).
Emergency Funds/Plans:
Have a little stash of cash for places that don’t take cards (some remote fuel stations or to tip that helpful rancher who pulled you out of a sand pit).
Also, have backup plans if asked to move (forest rangers might close area for fire danger – know another spot 20 miles away you could go).
Keep vehicle fuel topped – in off-grid life it can be your generator or your evacuation method if wildfire approaches.

Quick-Reference Checklists

Creating your own checklists for departure and setup can save a ton of hassle. Here are some recommended ones:

Departure (Breaking Camp) Checklist:

Inside:
- Turn off water heater
- Double-check fridge latches
- Secure or stow any loose items (coffee maker, table-top items, etc.)
- Close roof vents and windows
- Lock shower door/fridge/etc.
- Set slides in (after ensuring no obstructions and drawers closed)
Tanks:
- Dump tanks if possible (easier to travel empty on waste)
- Turn off propane at tanks
Power:
- Unplug shore power and store cord
- Turn off generator if running
- Turn off inverter
Outside:
- Stow awning & mats/chairs
- Secure bike rack
- Lower antennas
- Raise levelers and put away pads
- Hitch up trailer (do full walk-around: hitch latched & pinned, safety chains on, breakaway cable attached, trailer plug in and lights tested, jacks fully up, steps in, door locked)
- Remove wheel chocks (and jack pads)
Final walk-around:
- Look underneath for left items
- Check site for trash
- Ensure nothing left in fire pit, no tent pegs behind
- Thank host or say bye to neighbors if appropriate
Inside tow vehicle or cab:
- Accessible snacks
- Navigation set
- Sunglasses, etc., so you’re ready to roll safely

Arrival (Setting Camp) Checklist:

(We did a lot above)

Choose site
Level rig
Stabilizers down
Slides/awning out if desired
Hook up power/water/sewer as applicable (with regulator, etc.), test systems
Set up inside (turn on water heater, switch fridge to preferred energy source, etc.)
Arrange outside area (chairs, etc.)
Check cell/internet and any comm devices (so you know if you need booster up or Starlink out)
Verify pets settled (set up a comfy spot for them, check temperature inside if leaving them, etc.)
Safety scan (noted above – branches, etc).
Then relax or go explore!

Mid-trip Checks:

If staying put a while, every few days do a quick rig check: battery levels, propane left, look under rig for any leaks (water or oil), run generator a bit if not used recently, stir the black tank (add chemical or extra water as needed).
Little checks catch issues early (like noticing a small drip under sink and tightening a fitting before it floods).

Following these checklists and tips will soon become routine.
You’ll find that each trip you gain confidence.
Even mistakes become funny stories later (every RVer has a tale of something like “I left the TV antenna up and drove under a tree” or “We forgot to latch a compartment and it flew open on the highway – now we triple-check.”).
That’s okay – you learn and rarely repeat the same error after the first time.

Encouragement for Beginners

Don’t be overwhelmed by this exhaustive guide.
No one expects you to memorize it all at once.
Think of it as a reference you can consult when a question or problem arises.
Experience is the best teacher, and you’re going to gain it quickly once you hit the road.
Also, the RV community is incredibly supportive – if you’re at a campground and look puzzled setting up, often a friendly neighbor will offer help or advice (just be cautious of unsolicited advice that doesn’t feel right – but most mean well and have been in your shoes).

Remember why you embarked on this journey: to see new places, to find freedom, to bond with loved ones, to challenge yourself, to simplify life – whatever your reasons, keep them in focus.
The “work” of planning and troubleshooting is just the backend that enables those magical front-end experiences: that sunrise hike, that evening laughing around the fire, that sense of accomplishment after conquering a tough drive.

With the practical know-how from this guide and the spirit of adventure in your heart, you are well-equipped to handle what comes.
Every day won’t be perfect – but often the imperfect ones make the best stories (once safely past them).
You’ll soon find yourself giving tips to the next newbie you meet, paying it forward.

Now, as we conclude this Ultimate Destination Planner, take a moment to visualize your upcoming travels.
Picture pulling into a scenic overlook camp – you confidently set up, then kick back in your camp chair with everything you need at hand.
The stresses of daily life fade as you watch the setting sun paint the landscape.
In that moment, all the prep and caution comes together to enable pure enjoyment.
You’ve got this – an incredible journey awaits you.

Go forth, travel smart, tread lightly, and soak in the beauty around you.
Happy camping, safe travels, and maybe we’ll meet you on the trail. Enjoy the road!

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Safety, Responsibility & Stewardship

Conclusion

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