Daily Living Needs at Your Site

Setting up camp is not just parking – it’s making sure you can live well wherever you are. Especially off-grid, you become your own utility manager: electricity, water, and waste are all on you. Even on hookups, efficient usage saves money and hassle. Let’s tackle each aspect of daily living on the road:

Energy Options & Management

Powering an RV or camper can be as simple as plugging in at a campground or as complex as juggling solar input, generators, and battery reserves. Here’s how to keep the lights on:

On-Grid Hookups (Shore Power)

If you’re at a site with electrical hookups, you have a steady 120V supply. A few tips:

• Understand Amps: Most RV sites offer either 30-amp or 50-amp service (some have 20-amp for smaller rigs). Know which cord/adapter you need.
  30A gives you up to ~3,600 watts – enough for one major appliance at a time (e.g., run A/C OR microwave, but maybe not both simultaneously).
  50A actually provides two 50A circuits (split-phase), totaling ~12,000 watts – plenty for multiple ACs and all appliances at once.
  Use a surge protector/EMS when plugging in to protect from voltage spikes or wiring issues at the pedestal.

• Manage Load: Even on hookups, avoid turning everything on at once – you might trip the site breaker.
  Stagger heavy loads: for example, don’t run the electric water heater and hair dryer at the exact same time on 30A.
  If a breaker trips, reduce usage and reset it (know where your RV’s breaker panel is and also check pedestal breaker if you lose power).

• Cable Care: Use the shortest cord needed and fully uncoil it (coiled cords can overheat).
  For 50A, those cords are heavy; handle with care (wear gloves if hot weather, they can soften).
  Keep connections off the ground if possible (to avoid water puddles).

• Shore power lets you use appliances freely – but still be mindful of noise (e.g., running blender or shopvac at midnight might irk neighbors) and consider power conservation in bigger picture (it’s still good to not waste).
  It also charges your RV’s batteries via the converter/inverter-charger, so use that time to top off before going off-grid again.

Off-Grid Power Sources

When not plugged in, you have four main sources: batteries, solar, generator, and alternator (vehicle):

Solar Panels & Systems

Solar is a game-changer for off-grid. Modern panels (often on the RV roof, like the Astra A1’s 5,800W array) quietly harvest sun. Key points:

• Panel Sizing:
  How much solar do you need? Roughly, a 200W panel can produce about 60–100 Ah of 12V power per day (depending on sun).
  If you consume 50 Ah/day (typical for lights, fridge, small devices), 200W might cover you.
  If running a residential fridge or needing to work on a laptop all day, you might want 400W+.
  Many boondockers have 600–800W to also cover some cloudy weather and partial AC use.
  The Astra A1’s massive system is designed for “no-compromise” living (running AC, induction cooktops, etc., purely on solar/batteries) – not typical but shows what’s possible with investment.

• Charge Controller:
  This device between panels and batteries optimizes charging (MPPT type is best).
  It needs breathing room (they can get warm) and proper programming for your battery type.
  Check its display or app to monitor input – fun to see, and useful (you’ll know by midday if you’ve harvested enough or need generator top-up).

• Panel Angle & Shade:
  Rooftop panels are convenient but fixed flat – they produce less in morning/evening.
  Tiltable panels or portable ground panels can capture more by angling to sun.
  However, portables mean setup and security concerns (stake them down and cable-lock to something to deter theft).
  Avoid shading even parts of panels – one little shadow can drop output a lot.
  So park with panels in sun if possible (balance with heat considerations).
  Dust and dirt can cut efficiency – wipe panels with soft cloth when they get grimy (safely, when cool).

• Expectations:
  Solar is silent and maintenance-free, but not magic – short winter days or cloudy week will limit you.
  Know your “solar budget” and plan usage accordingly (maybe don’t binge the TV on a day when rain cuts your input to 10%).

Generators

These are your on-demand power plants, converting gasoline/propane to electricity (and noise). Tips for generator use:

• Selection:
  “Inverter” generators (like Honda EU series or Yamaha) are much quieter and produce cleaner power for electronics.
  They’re worth it if you boondock near others or value peace.
  Conventional open-frame generators are loud and can be obnoxious (and in some places, banned or restricted).

• Operation:
  Run the generator periodically under load – they actually perform better and stay healthier if exercised.
  If you only use it for emergencies, at least run it monthly for 15 minutes.
  Always place it downwind of your site so exhaust blows away (carbon monoxide is deadly – keep generator exhaust far from any RV windows/vents).
  Some use a Genturi exhaust extender on onboard generators to pipe fumes above the RV.

• Fuel:
  Carry extra gas safely (jerry cans) if boondocking far from stations.
  Use fuel stabilizer for gasoline if it sits long.
  Remember propane generators eat a lot of propane – factor that into supply.
  If high altitude, many generators have carb adjustments or jets for altitude – they lose power up high (e.g., you might not be able to run the A/C on a hot day at 8000 ft because generator can’t make rated power in thin air).

• Courtesy:
  Observe quiet hours (many public lands ask no generator use 10pm–6am).
  In tight camp areas, consider running it mid-day when most are out or ambient noise (wind/waves) is up.
  Use an extended-distance fuel tank or larger built-in tank if you need to run it long (some folks rig a 6-gallon external tank to their 2-gal Honda so it can run overnight for a medical device, though continuous overnight generator use is frowned upon in many campgrounds unless in emergencies).

• Maintenance:
  Check oil levels (inverter gens often need oil changes every ~100 hours).
  Keep spares (spark plug, air filter).
  A generator that won’t start when you truly need it (like after days of no sun) is frustrating – maintain it.

Battery Banks & Inverters

Batteries store energy for use when generators/solar are off. Inverters turn your battery’s DC into AC to run normal household items:

• Battery Types:
  Most RVs come with lead-acid (FLA or AGM) batteries. These work but you can only use about 50% of their capacity regularly and they’re heavy.
  Many serious boondockers upgrade to Lithium (LiFePO₄) batteries – they cost more upfront but are lighter, can use ~80–90% of capacity, charge faster, and last much longer (in cycles).
  If your budget allows, lithium is a great investment for off-grid life.
  The Astra A1 uses a big lithium bank (41 kWh), enabling it to run heavy loads off battery for days.
  You don’t need that extreme, but consider your needs: maybe 200 Ah of lithium (~2.5 kWh) is enough to keep basics running overnight until solar kicks in again.

• Monitoring:
  Use a battery monitor (like a Victron BMV or SmartShunt) to really know your state of charge.
  Voltage alone can be misleading under load. A monitor counts amp-hours and gives a % full reading – very handy to avoid over-discharging.
  Many lithium systems come with a Bluetooth app for stats.

• Inverters:
  These let you use AC appliances from battery. They come in sizes: 300W (for laptop/TV), 1000–2000W (microwave, blender), 3000+W (run almost anything, even A/C for short spurts).
  Match inverter size to your battery capacity – don’t get a 2000W inverter if you only have one 100 Ah battery (it would strain it).
  Also ensure it’s a pure sine wave inverter (clean power for electronics). Some RVs have an inverter built-in (especially if they have residential fridge or lots of 120V needs off-grid).

• Usage Strategy:
  Use 12V DC power where possible (lights, fridge if 3-way or 12V compressor, fans) since it’s efficient.
  Only turn on inverter when needed for AC devices (or if it’s powering a constant load like a residential fridge, then let it run but expect higher drain).
  Some inverters have idle draw – if you’re going to bed, and only the 12V furnace is running, turn off inverter to save power.

• Charging:
  Batteries recharge via converter on shore power, via solar (through charge controller), via generator (which is effectively same as shore if you plug RV into it), or via engine alternator.
  Monitor charge progress; if solar by noon shows batteries full, you might decide to use some power in afternoon (do laundry on inverter, etc.) because you’re harvesting surplus.
  Conversely, if days of clouds kept you at 50%, maybe run the generator in the morning to bulk charge batteries (they charge fastest from 50 to ~80%).

• Alternator Charging:
  When you drive, many RVs charge house batteries via engine alternator, but often at a slow rate through the 7-pin or isolation relay.
  If you have a motorhome, it likely has a B2B charger that gives a decent amperage.
  If towing a trailer, consider adding a DC-DC charger between tow vehicle and trailer to boost charge – otherwise that hour drive might only trickle a few amp-hours in.
  It’s a moderately advanced DIY but very worth it for frequent off-grid towers.

• Energy Audit:
  Take time to approximate your daily usage. For example: LED lights maybe 1–2 amps total when on, water pump negligible intermittent draw, furnace ~7A when blowing (might run 5 hours on a cold night = 35 Ah), fridge on propane still uses ~0.5A for electronics, charging devices maybe 2A average if a couple laptops/phones, TV a few amps, etc.
  Add up – maybe you use ~50–100 Ah a day (600–1200 Wh).
  Then ensure your charging sources can replenish that (100W solar panel in good sun might yield ~30 Ah per day, so you’d need a few hundred watts plus maybe some generator to net even).
  Understanding this will let you manage: if the math says you’ll be short, you can proactively conserve or charge.

• Power Conservation:
  Simple practices: turn off lights when not in use (LEDs are efficient but leaving many on adds up).
  Use furnace sparingly (bundle up or use extra blankets at night to lessen furnace cycles – also saves propane).
  Maximize daylight for tasks to avoid using lights and inverter at night.
  Charge devices during peak solar hours directly off the system instead of at night off battery.
  Consider efficient appliances – e.g., a 12V fan uses far less than running the inverter for a 120V fan.
  If you have solar, do bulk cooking or high-draw stuff in late afternoon when batteries are full and sun is still out (solar can directly supply the load).
  It’s about timing and prioritizing. We cover more in Energy Management tips, but living by the sun becomes second-nature – in sun, you’re rich; in dark, be frugal.

  • Propane Systems: They’re not exactly electricity, but part of energy:

    • Propane powers many RV appliances (fridge, stove, oven, furnace, water heater). These reduce electrical load by using gas, which is great off-grid. Make sure you have sufficient propane and know how to refill or swap tanks when empty.
    • Safety: check your propane detector is functional (they usually alarm every few minutes if sensor fails or if gas detected). Keep propane tanks closed when driving and when not in use (except fridge use on road if you choose, which some do – but be sure to turn it off at gas pumps!).
    • Efficiency: use propane for heating tasks when off-grid rather than electric via inverter (propane stove to boil water is more efficient than electric kettle on inverter drawing down battery). Use the furnace on propane rather than a space heater on inverter (the latter would kill batteries quick). Essentially, save your electrical power for things propane can’t do (electronics, fans, etc.).
    • We’ll discuss propane more under Propane usage, but in context of power: having a dual propane/120V fridge is great – run it on propane when off-grid to avoid 12V drain; same with water heater (use propane mode so you’re not using up battery through inverter).

• Power Budgeting & Monitoring: In summary, managing your off-grid energy is like managing a bank account:

  • Estimate Needs: Do an energy audit as described. Know roughly “My daily use is X amp-hours. I can supply Y amp-hours from solar/generator. Thus I’m in surplus/deficit.”
    If deficit, plan to either reduce use or run generator some each day.
    If surplus, great – maybe you can run an extra appliance or just have more buffer.

  • Monitoring Tools: A battery monitor (Victron, Trimetric, etc.) is like your account balance display. Check it in morning and evening to see how you’re tracking.
    Many are Bluetooth now so you can see on phone “Battery 68%, drawing 4.2A right now” etc.
    Also use your RV’s panel gauges, but those are often just voltmeters (vague).
    I also keep a watt-meter for 120V (like a Kill-A-Watt) to test how much certain devices draw – handy to know “my coffee maker pulls 800W = ~67A DC from battery through inverter while running”.
    With that knowledge, you might opt to use a percolator on the stove when off-grid instead of the electric coffee maker.

  • Set Thresholds: You might decide, for battery longevity, “I won’t let my lead-acid batteries drop below 50%” or for lithium maybe 20%.
    So if you wake up and see 50% (on lead-acid) and a cloudy day ahead, you either cut usage or fire up generator to avoid dipping much lower (which can shorten battery life or leave you unable to run critical devices).

  • Generator Etiquette vs. Necessity: Sometimes you might wait until afternoon hoping solar charges you, rather than running generator at breakfast.
    But if it’s cloudy and you need to work (computer, etc.), do what you must. Just be mindful of those around and follow rules.
    Some coordinate with neighbors (“I need to run my generator an hour around noon to top up – does that bother you?” – most are fine if you’re considerate about timing).

  • Inverter Off When Not Needed: Leaving an inverter on idle draws power (could be an amp or two).
    That’s 24–48 amp-hours wasted in a day. So install inverter remote switch or turn it off at the unit when you don’t need AC power.

  • LED everything: If your rig still has incandescent bulbs, swap to LED – one of the easiest power savers.
    The Astra A1, like most modern rigs, is fully LED-lit (and uses efficient appliances) to optimize energy usage.

  • Charge Devices Efficiently: Many RVers use 12V car chargers for phones/laptops rather than through inverter + wall charger (avoids the double conversion loss).
    Or charge laptops while generator is on (so the energy comes straight from generator, not battery).

Mastering your energy system might seem daunting, but after a few trips you’ll get a feel for it. It can be oddly satisfying to manage – you become attuned to sunshine like never before (“yay, 14 amps coming in from solar at noon!”) and to your usage rhythms. Many find that being off-grid and energy-aware actually makes them consume less and enjoy simpler routines (reading at night by one light vs. leaving every light on, etc.). And that stretches your capabilities to stay out longer and in more remote spots.

Next, we’ll turn to the other crucial resource: water. How to find it, store it, and make it last – so you can stay clean and hydrated miles from the nearest faucet.

Water: Finding & Managing Your Supply

Water is often the limiting factor for how long you can boondock. Humans need it daily, and RVs have finite tank capacity. Let’s break down the water equation:

Finding Water (Refill Sources)

Before heading off-grid, top off your fresh water tank:

• Campgrounds & Parks: Many public campgrounds have water fill spigots or a dump station with potable water. Even if you’re not camping there, some allow travelers to use it for a small fee or free. Ranger stations, visitor centers, and rest areas sometimes have water spigots (always check if potable).
  For example, many highway rest areas in the West have a threaded spigot at the picnic area or by the dump station – I’ve filled my RV tank at rest stops that way (some have signs “free RV water”).

• Gas Stations & Stores: Large gas stations or truck stops occasionally have a water faucet (not the windshield wash one!). Ask inside – I’ve had attendants let me fill a few jugs from a side spigot. Outdoor sports stores or U-Haul centers sometimes have water stations (Cabela’s often provide dump and water for free or a few dollars).

• Municipal Water Fill Stations: Some towns have public water fill spots (try searching on Campendium or Sanidumps.com – they list some water fills along with dump stations). For instance, a fairground or city park might have a water spout specifically for RVers.

• Streams & Lakes: In remote areas with no treated water, you might consider collecting natural water and filtering for non-drinking uses. But generally, it’s easier to plan a trip to a known water source every so often.
  If you must use stream water: filter or boil for drinking (see below), and you can use untreated water for flushing toilets or washing (though be mindful of sediment in your tank/pump). Carry a portable pump or manual jug to haul water from source to rig if needed.

• Listings & Apps: Use tools like iOverlander or Allstays – you can filter for “water” or they have icons for water points. The comments often say “potable water spigot behind the restrooms” etc. Some paid dump stations include water (just ensure it’s marked potable; some dumps have a non-potable rinse hose – DO NOT fill your fresh tank with that!).
  Always use your white drinking water hose and let it run a bit to flush any stagnant water before filling tank.

• Ask Locals: If in a pinch, ask a friendly local (maybe at a small town gas station or visitor center) “Is there anywhere I could fill my RV water around here?”
  They might point you to an old fire house or park. Once, a kind county park employee let me fill from their maintenance shed after the campground shut off water for season.

Managing Supply (Conservation)

Once you have X gallons on board, how to stretch it:

• Navy Showers: As mentioned, wet down, water off, lather, water on to rinse – you can shower in 1–3 gallons this way. Some install an on/off valve at the showerhead to make it easy. Alternatively, wipe down with a wet washcloth between full showers to save water (especially in cool weather where you don’t get super sweaty).

• Reuse Water: Catch and reuse grey water where appropriate: e.g., catch rinse water from veggies to water plants (if allowed) or to pre-soak dirty dishes. Use leftover boiled water (cooled) to wash dishes instead of tossing it. Some hardcore boondockers will use dish water to flush toilets (pour it in the bowl) to save fresh water – this is fine if it’s not greasy.

• Washing Dishes: Wipe plates with a paper towel first to remove grease/food before washing (this keeps grey water less nasty too). Use two basins: one with soapy water, one with rinse – rather than running the tap. Or use a spray bottle to pre-rinse or wash dishes. If water is very scarce, consider one-pot meals or even using paper plates occasionally (though that creates trash, so weigh the trade-off).

• Toilet Flush: RV toilets use surprisingly little water if you’re careful. For liquid-only flushes, a quick valve open to send it down is enough. For solids, add just enough to cover bottom of bowl to help it flush down, no more. And if you can, sometimes use campground vault toilets or public restrooms for #2 to save your tank and water.

• Drinking & Cooking: Carry separate drinking water jugs if your tank water isn’t great taste or if you want to save tank for washing. Many RVers bring a 5-gallon jug of spring water or have a Berkey/filter pitcher for drinking.

• Laundry: If off-grid long enough to need laundry, know it’s a water hog. Better to hand-wash small items occasionally and save big loads for when you have hookups or laundromat. Some folks do use portable washers off-grid (twin-tub types) – if you do, plan to reuse the grey water for something like pre-rinsing next batch or flushing, and use low-suds detergent (easier to rinse with minimal water).

• Check for Leaks: A tiny leak (dripping faucet, toilet valve seeping) can waste gallons over days. If your pump kicks on occasionally when not using water, you have a leak or slight toilet valve seep. Fix those to save water (and battery).

• Bathing Alternatives: If near a lake/river and it’s warm, you might take a plunge (without soap) to rinse off sweat, then do a very quick soapy rinse in the RV – cuts water use.
  Just ensure any soap you do use in natural water is biodegradable and minimal, and 200 feet from water source ideally. Or use rinse-free bathing wipes on interim days.

• Gauge and Ration: Keep an eye on your tank level (if your RV gauge is unreliable, you’ll learn by experience or you can install better sensors).
  If you see you’re at half after 2 days of a 6-day trip, tighten up the conservation. We often mentally allot “X gallons per day” and try to stay under that.
  For example, with 60 gal fresh for 2 people over 7 days, target ~8 gallons/day between us for all uses (drinking, washing, etc.). It’s very doable with mindful use.

Water Quality & Treatment

Not all water you find is equal:

• Potability: Assume all unknown water is non-potable unless labeled. Many spigots in campgrounds are safe to drink, but if a sign says “Non-potable” (common at dump station rinse hoses), do not ingest that water or fill your fresh tank with it.
  If you must use it (say to flush toilets), clearly mark that tank or container as non-drinkable.

• Filters: It’s wise to have a basic sediment filter on your RV water inlet (like those inline Camco filters) – it traps debris and some chlorine.
  For serious drinking water quality, consider a dual filtration (sediment + carbon) or even a small reverse osmosis system if you’re particular (keeping in mind RO wastes some water).
  At minimum, we often filter drinking water through a pitcher (Brita style) or have a faucet filter.
  The Astra A1 likely has an advanced water filtration/UV system given its off-grid luxury tilt – if yours doesn’t, you can mimic that by using portable filters or built-ins if you can install.

• Purifying Natural Water: If you do collect lake/stream water: to make it safe, you have options:

  • Boiling: Rolling boil for 1-3 minutes will kill pathogens (but uses fuel and you have to let it cool).

  • Chemical: Iodine tablets or chlorine drops (Aquamira, etc.) can disinfect (follow instructions for contact time). Leaves slight taste sometimes.

  • Filtration: A good pump or gravity filter (Sawyer, Katadyn, Platypus) removes bacteria and protozoa; some also have charcoal for taste.
    Viruses are typically only a concern in certain areas (less so in wild US water), but a few filters (or combination of filter + chemical) handle them.

  • UV Sterilizers: Devices like SteriPen use UV light to kill microbes in a container of water – quick and effective for small quantities (like a Nalgene bottle).

  • If you’re going truly off-grid for long periods, having a water purification method is wise.
    Even if not for main supply, perhaps for emergency or if you get stuck longer. Some RVers carry a portable Berkey filter for drinking water – you can pour any fresh water in and it gravity-filters safe, great-tasting water.

  • Graywater reuse: In dire straits, you could reuse relatively clean greywater (like water used to rinse veggies) for flushing toilets or watering plants (if allowed).
    Don’t reuse for washing or drinking unless treated, obviously.

• Hot Water Management: Your water heater (propane or electric) holds limited hot water (6-10 gallons typical). For conservation, consider turning it off when not needed; “marine shower” by turning heater off just before you shower so you mix in less cold (since tank water is cooling, you don’t need as much cold mix – uses less total water for same comfortable temp).
  Also, you don’t always need it on – heat it up, then turn off; the insulated tank will stay hot for hours (use that for dishes or quick cleanup later, no need to reheat constantly).

• Winter considerations: If camping in freezing weather, know how to keep water flowing: tank heaters or heat pads on pipes, interior plumbing exposed to heat, running a trickle overnight (wastes water though), or winterize (blow out water lines) and use alternate water containers if deeply below freezing.
  In shoulder seasons, heat your rig enough to protect plumbing at night if you still have water onboard (open cabinet doors to let warm air to pipes).

Water is life, and managing it becomes almost a game when boondocking – you’ll find yourself celebrating, “We made our water last and still had 5 gallons left!” It’s a good habit for sustainability too. Using less water means less frequent hauling and aligns with Leave No Trace by minimizing grey water disposal issues.

Next, logically, after using water comes dealing with waste – both grey (used water) and black (sewage), plus trash. In the following section, we’ll talk about handling waste responsibly so you leave your campsite as pristine as you found it (or better). This is a key part of off-grid living that sometimes intimidates beginners, but with the right approach it’s no big deal.

Waste Management

Managing waste is a fundamental part of camping – nobody’s coming to take out the trash or empty your tanks in the wild. But it’s not as icky as it sounds if you follow best practices and use available facilities:

Dumping Grey Tanks

Gray water (sinks, shower) may contain food bits, soap, grease, etc. Proper disposal is important to avoid environmental harm:

• Use Designated Dump Stations: The ideal is to dump your grey (and black) at an official dump station. These are found at many campgrounds, travel centers (Pilot/Flying J, some Love’s have them), highway rest stops (in some states), municipal waste facilities, etc.
  Apps and sites like Sanidumps, Campendium, and Allstays list dump stations by area. Some are free, some charge a fee ($5-$15).
  Plan to hit one when your tanks are getting near full. For example, if boondocking for 10 days, maybe mid-way you drive to a nearby campground or truck stop, dump tanks, fill water, then return to camp (some folks do this with a portable “blue boy” tank to avoid moving the whole RV, but that’s only practical if the dump is close).

• Do Not Dump on the Ground (unless explicitly allowed): In most cases, open dumping of grey water is illegal and definitely against Leave No Trace principles.
  While grey is less harmful than black, it can still attract animals and create odors or contamination (from soaps, food).
  Some very remote or arid areas might tolerate sprinkling small amounts of well-dispersed grey (especially if using biodegradable soap), but I’d avoid it unless urgent and permitted.
  If you must emergency-dump some grey to buy a day or two of tank space, strain out solids (use a mesh strainer) and broadcast the water over a wide area away from any water sources or camps – but again, this is last resort and in alignment with local rules (some BLM areas quietly allow released grey if you’ve used only eco-friendly products and scatter it – others do not).

• Portable Waste Tanks: If you’re camped not far from a dump station (say in a campground without sewer hookups but with a dump station), you can use a wheeled tote tank (like the blue Barker or Thetford tanks).
  Fill it with grey via your RV’s outlet (open grey valve to flow into tote), then tow that tote to the dump. This avoids moving your whole rig.
  Some even use these for black, but that’s messier. For grey it’s fine. Just be mindful towing a heavy tote – secure it so it doesn’t tip (they attach to hitch sometimes).

• Remote Alternative – Dig a Sump: In certain long-term backcountry camps, people dig a small pit (away from water, 6-8 inches deep) to pour strained grey water in, then fill it back in when leaving.
  This is generally discouraged by land agencies unless absolutely necessary and with biodegradable inputs.
  If you do this, don’t use bleach or harsh chemicals in your grey – they can harm soil organisms. Stick to biodegradable soap and small amounts.

• Odor and Maintenance: Grey tanks can smell if food waste sits. Use tank treatments (enzymatic ones work well) or even a bit of baking soda down the sink to mitigate odor.
  Install screens on sink drains to catch food bits (it’s easier to toss those than have them rot in tank).
  When dumping grey, you can flush the tank with a hose briefly to clear gunk (many rigs have a flush connection or you can run a spray wand down the shower drain or use an adapter cap with hose inlet to flush).

Dumping Black Tanks

Black water (toilet waste) requires careful, sanitary disposal:

• Use Full Hookups or Dump Stations: Ideally, you’ll dump black at same time as grey at a dump station. Hook your sewer hose (with proper fittings) to your RV outlet, other end to dump inlet (use a doughnut or seal if required by the station).
  Dump black first, then dump grey to rinse hose out. Always ensure the sewer hose connections are secure (wear gloves!).
  You do not want a “Stinky Slinky” accident. Open the black valve and let it flow until done (you’ll hear it, see final trickle, etc.), then open grey (which is soapy water that helps rinse).

• Flush and Clean: If you can, use a tank flush system or stick a rinse hose down the toilet after dumping to dislodge any remaining solids (ensure your tank’s exit valve is open when doing this so it drains).
  Close valves, rinse your sewer hose with the non-potable water hose (if available) – but do not use that same hose on your fresh fill after!
  Many dump stations have separate hoses – one clearly marked for rinse. Or bring your own dedicated rinse hose.

• Portable Approach: If you have to empty black mid-trip without moving rig and no sewer hookup, you could use a portable tote (but handling raw sewage is heavy and riskier).
  Some people use a macerator pump – this device grinds waste and pumps it through a garden hose.
  In theory, you could pump black water uphill or to a distant sewer cleanout or toilet. It’s slow and requires power/water, but it’s an option if direct dumping isn’t possible.
  For most, better to just take the RV to a dump or call a mobile service (some RV parks have honey wagon service where a truck comes to pump your tank for a fee).

• Never Dump Illegally: It should go without saying – dumping black or any sewage on the ground or into waterways is not only disgusting but illegal and environmentally catastrophic.
  One RV can pollute a lot of land/water – please don’t. Even if you dig a deep hole, it’s not acceptable in almost all cases.
  Pack it out via your tank or use a proper outhouse facility. If you’re somewhere without any dump station for hundreds of miles (rare in US), maybe plan to use alternative toilets (Luggable Loo bucket or wag bags you can pack out as trash).

• Maintain the Black Tank: Use adequate water when flushing solids (to avoid “pyramid” of poo build-up).
  Add a tank chemical after each dump (or at start of trip) – either traditional formaldehyde type (control odor, break waste) or enzyme/bacteria type (accelerate breakdown naturally).
  Enzyme ones are more eco-friendly and fine for septic systems if your waste ends up there.
  Astra’s A1 avoids black tanks entirely by using a composting toilet – if you’re open to that, it can simplify waste (no black dumps, but you have to manage the compost eventually).

• Monitor Level: Don’t rely on sensors too much (they often misread when dirty).
  If you hear burping or have slow flush draining, your black tank might be near full or vent clogged.
  It’s better to dump before it’s completely topped off (to avoid backups into your toilet – yuck).
  If in doubt and staying long, you could do an extra partial dump run mid-trip.

• Clogs: If you suspect a blockage (e.g., valve open but nothing coming and tank not empty), close valve, add lots of water and perhaps a tank wand flush or ice cubes then drive around to dislodge (ice is old trick – half-fill tank with water and a bag of ice, drive washboard roads, the ice scours the tank interior).
  Tank wands or flush sprayers are effective for clearing sensor gunk or clogs.

Sanitation & Environmental Best Practices:

• Use Biodegradable Products: Choose holding tank treatments and dish/hand soaps that are septic-safe and biodegrade.
  This way, any trace grey water that might escape or eventual treatment of your waste is gentler on the environment.
  Same for shampoo/toothpaste if possible.

• Minimize Contamination: Don’t dump food grease down the drain – wipe pans with paper towel and dispose in trash instead.
  Fats can coat your tank (and attract animals if any grey water leaked). Avoid harsh chemicals in tanks (no bleach in your grey/black routinely – it can kill the good bacteria that break down waste).

• Respect Dump Sites: When using a dump station, leave it as you’d want to find it. If you spill, rinse it off.
  Don’t hog the station during busy times – do your dump/fill efficiently, then pull forward to finish hose cleaning or other tasks so the next rig can start dumping.
  This courtesy keeps these free/cheap facilities pleasant for all.

• Trash Disposal: Manage trash to avoid litter and wildlife attraction. Use campground dumpsters or city waste bins to dispose of garbage properly – don’t burn or bury trash (even burning paper can leave micro litter).
  Pack out everything you packed in. If boondocking a long time, you might segregate recyclables (cans, etc.) to dump when you find a recycle bin, and compress general trash.
  I keep trash sealed in a bin in my tow vehicle to avoid smells in RV or critter access.

• Leave No Trace: The end goal is that your stay leaves no sign. Proper waste management is key to this.
  I often do a final sweep of the site – policing any tiny litter (bread ties, bottle caps) and checking I didn’t drain anything inadvertently.
  The classic LNT principles apply: Pack it in, pack it out; dispose of waste properly.
  By following the guidance above, you accomplish that for both liquid and solid wastes.

• Pet Waste Management: If you have dogs (or cats on leash), clean up their poop from camp areas and trails.
  Burying dog waste is not generally recommended (unlike with backcountry human waste, where catholes are accepted practice if done properly).
  Best is bag it and carry to trash. If in wilderness and carrying out isn’t immediately feasible, you might temporarily stow the bag in a sealed container (a double-ziplock or dedicated canine “poop jar”) until you reach a trash can.
  Some dispersed areas you might get away with burying dog waste 6+ inches deep and 200 ft from water/trails (mimicking backcountry protocol), but only do so in very wild areas and without plastic bags.
  In campgrounds, absolutely bag it and bin it – no excuses (plus left pet waste can carry pathogens and degrade site quality).
  Also, don’t let dogs pee on others’ campsite stuff (common sense: walk them away from sites). Many campgrounds have pet walking areas – use those.
  For cats, dispose of litter in sealed bags in trash; never dump litter outside (even “natural” litter isn’t native and can attract pests).

• Grey Water in Nature: One more note – if tent camping or in backcountry where you wash dishes by hand outdoors: carry water 200 feet away from streams to do it.
  Use minimal biodegradable soap. Strain food bits (pack them out with trash). Scatter the strained grey water over a wide area, not all in one spot (to facilitate soil filtering it).
  This isn’t directly RV, but for those who mix tent camping or if you’re car camping, same LNT idea. Many RVers with outdoor kitchens still catch grey in a basin and dump it properly later, which is ideal.

• Composting Toilets & Alternatives: Some RVers use composting toilets (which separate liquids and solids).
  Solids are stored with a bulking medium (coco coir, etc.) where they partially decompose odorlessly; liquids get dumped periodically (usually in a toilet or permitted sewer).
  If you have one, manage it per instructions – typically empty solid bin when 2/3 full (in a trash bag, then dispose – it’s often not fully composted unless it’s sat for months, so treat as human waste).
  That can go to regular trash in double-bag (legal in U.S., ends up in landfill). It avoids needing black dump stations but you handle solid waste more directly.
  Also mind that some compost toilet users still need a small grey tank for urine or plumb urine to the grey tank; if so, treat that grey as black (dump accordingly) if lots of urine in it, or dump more frequently to avoid odor.
  Other alternatives: cassette toilets (common in campervans) which are 5-gal pull-out tanks you dump in a toilet or dump station – straightforward, just be very careful carrying a heavy cassette to avoid spills.
  If off-grid, you might also use wag bags (double-lined bags with gelling powder) for poop – expensive per use, but an emergency option and can be tossed in trash.
  Good to have a few wag bags in your emergency kit in case your toilet/pump fails or tanks are full and you absolutely can’t dump – you have a backup to do your business.

• Emergency Waste Situations: If, say, your black tank is totally full and you cannot get to a dump (worst-case scenario), one could flush with plenty of water to dilute and then very carefully dump in a cathole (at least 6-8 inches deep, 200 ft from water/camp) – but this is extremely last resort and illegal on most managed lands.
  It’s better to prevent reaching that point by using backups as described (bag waste, use other facilities, etc.). In any survival situation, bury human waste away from water and camp, same as you would backpacking.
  Burn or pack out used toilet paper – do not leave TP on the ground (animals dig it up). But again, with an RV, you really shouldn’t need to do this if you plan well.

The good news is, when you handle waste right, you keep your environment pristine, avoid fines (some places fine for dumping grey or pet waste), and you don’t gross out your fellow campers or future yourself. It becomes routine: after a while, dumping tanks is a quick chore you don’t think twice about – just part of the RV lifestyle. You’ll also take pride in leaving a site cleaner than you found it (I often pick up stray rubber bands, bread ties, or micro-litter and feel good disposing of it properly).

With waste managed, you’re free to enjoy the location without worry. At this point, we’ve covered prepping your power and water, and dealing with output. The next focus is provisioning – keeping yourself fed and stocked up out there. We’ll discuss smart shopping, food storage, cooking, and staying connected to supplies (including for pets). Essentially, how to not run out of the stuff you need for daily living while far from stores.

Provisioning & Restocking

One of the joys of RV travel is bringing your home (and pantry) with you. But you still need to resupply fresh goods and the like. Let’s talk about efficient ways to provision, store food, and restock on the road:

Stocking Up (What to Buy Before You Go)

• Non-perishables: Load up on staples that won’t spoil – canned goods, dry pasta, rice, beans, oatmeal, cereal, peanut butter, coffee/tea, trail mixes, etc.
  Think about the types of meals you can make easily while camping and ensure you have the base ingredients.
  For example, for boondocking I like one-pot meals (chili, stews, pasta), so I carry canned tomatoes, spices, broth, etc., plus long-lasting veggies like onions, carrots, potatoes.

• Propane/Fuel: Ensure you have enough propane for cooking/heating or gas for generator, etc. (We covered that in energy but it’s part of provisioning).

• Water & Drinks: As discussed, fill water tank and maybe carry extra drinking water if you prefer bottled or if local water might taste off.
  Also stock other drinks you enjoy (bring that case of LaCroix or beer from cheaper big stores rather than hoping a tiny mountain town has your brand, for instance).

• Personal & Pet Supplies: Bring adequate toiletries, medications (carry more than trip length in case of extension/emergency), pet food (hard to find specialty pet food brands in remote areas).
  If your pet is on a specific diet, pack enough or note stores en route that carry it. Same for any special human diet needs (gluten-free bread might not be available in a rural gas station store).

• Emergency Food: It’s wise to have a few extra meals that don’t require fresh ingredients – e.g., a couple of backpacker freeze-dried meals or MREs, or even Mac n Cheese and canned tuna – something you can eat if you get stuck longer than planned.
  Also some protein bars or survival rations stashed away. This doesn’t take much space and gives peace of mind.

• Snacks: Road trips and hiking demand snacks. Bring nuts, granola bars, chocolate, or your favorites – small stores may not have the healthy options you like.

Managing Perishables (Fridge & Cooler)

• Your RV fridge likely isn’t huge. Plan perishable meals for the first few days when produce and meats are freshest, then use canned/frozen later in the trip.
  For example, have the lettuce salads and berries in the first 2-3 days, save hearty cabbage and apples for later (they last longer).

• Temperature: Monitor your fridge temp. Absorption fridges need to be level and have good airflow at the back (don’t overpack so much that air can’t circulate).
  In hot climates, consider putting a battery fan inside the fridge or a small fan on the exterior vent to improve cooling.
  Also, pre-chill items if you can (putting in a case of warm drinks taxes the fridge – maybe cool them in an ice chest first or add a bag of ice to fridge temporarily).

• Coolers: If you need extra cold storage (large group or long off-grid time), a good quality cooler can supplement.
  Use block ice (lasts longer) or dry ice (keeps things frozen – but handle carefully with ventilation).
  Keep the cooler in shade or even buried in cool ground for efficiency. You could dedicate a cooler to drinks – reducing how often the fridge is opened (since people grab drinks frequently).
  Modern 12V compressor coolers are also an option – basically a portable fridge/freezer that runs off your battery/solar, useful if you have power to spare.

• Organization: Use clear bins in fridge for categories (meats in one, veggies in one) so you can quickly pull out a bin rather than rummage and letting cold air out.
  Label leftovers with date and eat them in a timely manner (less waste). If boondocking without daily trash service, manage leftovers to avoid spoilage smells – maybe bring sealable bags or odor absorbing packs.

• Extending Life: Simple hacks: wrap broccoli or lettuce in paper towel to absorb moisture (lasts longer), store mushrooms in paper bag, not plastic.
  If fruits are ripening too fast, move them into fridge. Use a product like Fridge Odor Absorber or baking soda to keep smells down.
  For long trips, consider fruits/veggies that last: citrus, apples, cabbage, root veggies, hearty greens (kale lasts longer than spinach).
  Delicate items like berries should be eaten first or can be frozen on day 2-3 to preserve for later use in cooking.

Food Storage & Organization

• Pantry: Use stackable bins or tension rods in cabinets to keep items from shifting.
  I like to group by type (breakfast foods in one bin, dinner ingredients in another, snacks in another).
  That way you can pull out a whole bin to find stuff rather than reaching into a deep cabinet blind.

• Spices & Oils: A good set of spices makes camp cooking enjoyable. Keep them in a small box or rack with padding so they don’t clatter.
  Ensure bottle lids are tight (I put liquids like oil or soy sauce in a ziplock in case of leaks). Store cooking oil in a cool place (heat makes it go rancid faster).

• Critter-proofing: In bear country or areas with rodents, secure food especially when away from the rig or at night.
  In a hard-sided RV you’re mostly okay (bears usually don’t break into RVs unless something very smelly is left right by a window).
  But it’s wise to keep food in closed cabinets or containers. If tent camping, absolutely use bear canisters or lockers for all smellables at night.

• Trash: As mentioned, have a sealed container for garbage. Empty it often enough to avoid odor or attracting ants/flies.
  If boonies, you might keep trash in an outside bin during day (hung high or in vehicle) to not smell up RV, then bring inside at night to deter animals.
  If you have messy waste (meat scraps, etc.), double bag and, if feasible, freeze it until you reach a trash can (this is a trick to prevent odor – freezing chicken bones until disposal).

• Pet Food: Store pet food in airtight containers too (large Ziplock or plastic bin) – keeps it fresh and deters pests.
  Remember, from a bear’s nose perspective, pet food = food. Don’t leave Fido’s bowl of kibble out overnight.

Sourcing Specialty Items

• If you have dietary needs (gluten-free, vegan), plan that small town grocery might not have your preferred almond milk or GF bread.
  Stock up in larger cities when you see those items. Some travelers even use Amazon or Walmart delivery to ship supplies to a pickup location ahead on the route if needed.

• For long travels, consider mail-order or subscription boxes delivered to a friend or to general delivery that you can intercept (some full-timers get dehydrated meal kits or snack subscription to keep variety in their diet).

• Fresh Produce on the Road: Look for farmers markets or farm stands. They often pop up along highways or in towns on weekends – a treat to get local fresh produce and support local economy.
  There are apps and sites listing farmers markets by region (LocalHarvest etc.). Also some farms allow U-pick – could be a fun provisioning stop (picking apples or berries).

• Protein: If you fish or hunt (in season, with license), you might supplement your food with wild-caught fish or game.
  Just ensure you store it safely (e.g., freeze fish if you catch more than one meal’s worth).

• Dining Out: Part of provisioning is deciding when to enjoy local cuisine. Budget for some meals out – it reduces your grocery needs and lets you experience the local culture.
  Maybe you plan every 5th day you’ll hit a local diner or brewery – thus you can carry slightly less in fridge by counting on that.

Bulk Shopping vs Frequent Stops

• Bulk (Big Shops): If you have the storage (pantry space, big fridge/freezer), doing a big grocery run at a large store (Walmart, Costco, etc.) in a city can be cost-effective and convenient.
  Stock up so you avoid pricey small markets later. For example, buy a month’s worth of canned goods, dry staples, and frozen meat in a city – freeze the meat, fill pantry with canned.
  That might carry you through many remote days, where you then only seek local stores for bread, milk, produce intermittently.
  Downside is initial cost outlay, and you need to have space (and weight capacity) to carry it. Also consider climate – if you’re going through very hot areas, lots of chocolate or soft snack bars might melt – perhaps buy those in cooler climes or store in fridge.

• Frequent Small Stops: Some prefer to shop every few days, buying just what’s fresh. This is nice for produce and bakery items and ensures you eat everything before it spoils.
  It also spreads out cost and is less strain on storage space. If you plan towns frequently (and enjoy checking out local markets), this is viable.
  Just note that rural general stores can be limited and expensive – $5 for a loaf of bread that’s not your favorite brand, etc.
  So if certain items matter, buy ahead. But I love visiting little markets for things like regional cheeses or meats – part of travel fun.
  A hybrid approach is common: stock basics in bulk, get perishables as you go.

• Meal Planning: Before a trip (especially a week or longer off-grid), sketch a meal plan. It helps ensure you pack all ingredients needed and prevents over-buying perishable stuff that you won’t get to (which then goes bad).
  For example: Plan 7 dinners – if 3 involve chicken, buy enough chicken and plan to use it within 3 days or freeze portions for later in week.
  If 2 are pasta, ensure you have pasta & sauce. Lunches could be sandwiches (check bread supply) or salads (use up greens early in trip).
  Breakfast maybe oatmeal (pack oats, dry fruit, etc.). Having at least a rough plan means you won’t run short on a key item or end up with wasted food.
  It also reduces the chance of impulse buys that clutter the small RV kitchen. Of course, remain flexible in case you decide to eat out or join a camp potluck.

• Canning and Preserving: For really long expeditions, some RVers do home canning or bring home-canned goods.
  If you have jars of stew, chili, etc., they’re heavy but shelf-stable and only need reheating. Probably overkill for most, but worth noting if you like to preserve farmers market bounty en route for later.

Tips for Efficient Restocking on the Road

• Timing: Shop when stores are less crowded (weekday mornings) so you can get in/out and also easier to park your rig.
  If you have a big rig, try to do major shops when you’re camped and can use your tow vehicle or toad to go to store.
  Or choose superstores with RV parking space. Many Walmarts, for instance, have bus/RV slots or empty far sections of lot – park there.

• Park Smart: If you must take the RV to grocery, find a spot you can pull through or park along the edge where you can easily exit.
  Avoid peak hours to reduce parking lot chaos. Some people double-park across multiple regular spots at far end of lot – which is fine if lot isn’t full and you’re quick.
  Always be mindful of not trapping yourself – better to walk a bit than to squeeze into somewhere risky.

• Use Apps for Refills: Some travelers use Walmart Grocery Pickup – order online and pick up curbside.
  This can be convenient: you don’t have to find parking for long, just swing by pickup area. It also limits impulse buys and lets you plan inventory from your RV when you see you’re low on something.
  Similarly, services like Amazon Pantry or Whole Foods delivery might drop supplies to an Amazon locker or address on your route if you plan it.

• Propane & Fuel with Groceries: Try to align errands. If you’re going into town for groceries, also refill propane, dump tanks, get mail, etc.
  One efficient circuit saves multiple trips. I plan a “town day” every week or two where I hit laundromat, propane station, grocery, and dump station in one run.

• Laundry Coordination: If you need laundry, choose a laundromat near a grocery – put clothes in wash, then pop next door to shop for 30 minutes, return to switch loads, etc.
  Some bigger campgrounds have laundry and a camp store; you might pay a bit more at camp store but it’s convenient to multi-task while laundry spins.

• Budget: Track your provisions spending if on a budget. It’s easy to overspend on fancy road snacks or local brews – which is fine if budgeted, but being aware helps.
  Some use envelope system or separate account for “travel groceries & dining” to monitor this variable cost.

• Waste not: Before a restock, evaluate what you have left. Use up or freeze leftovers, check produce for what needs to be eaten next, consolidate duplicates.
  This prevents buying things you already had (I’ve been guilty of buying mustard only to find I had two bottles hiding in the pantry).
  An organized pantry avoids that – you can see at a glance what’s low. Some folks keep an inventory list on a whiteboard or spreadsheet, but that’s typically for full-timers with lots of storage.

• Containers: Use spill-proof containers for liquids (store cooking oil, syrups upright in snug spots). Remove excess packaging at home (e.g., take cereal out of bulky box and just keep inner bag, or repackage items into space-saving bags).
  This reduces trash on the road too. For long trips, investing in some stacking containers for fridge and pantry can really optimize space (e.g., square containers use cabinet space better than round cans wasted corners).

By staying on top of provisioning, you’ll rarely find yourself saying “Oh no, we’re out of X and the nearest store is 50 miles.” And you’ll eat better too – planning meals means you bring what you truly enjoy cooking/eating rather than scrounging random cans because you forgot key ingredients.

Alright, with power flowing, water in tank, food in pantry, and waste managed, you’re set for daily living. Next, we’ll focus on the camp itself: physically setting up your site for comfort and safety (leveling, stabilizing, hooking up resources, etc.), and establishing a safe, pleasant environment (from wildlife safety to emergency prep). In other words, how to turn that patch of ground into your home-away-from-home effectively.

Connectivity & Communication

In our increasingly connected world, many travelers need (or want) to stay in touch even while camping. Whether it’s to work remotely, check in with family, or just have internet for entertainment and trip planning, connectivity can be a big deal. Let’s discuss how to stay online and reachable – and also when to embrace being offline:

Cell Signal Mapping & Boosting

• Before you go, use maps from OpenSignal or Coverage? to see if your destination has cell service.
  If a spot is known to be a dead zone and you require connectivity, you might adjust camp a few miles (often higher ground or closer to a highway improves signal).
  Many boondockers choose sites on a hill or with a clear view to nearest town to get that one bar of LTE for emails.

• Cell Boosters: These devices (like weBoost Drive Reach) use an external antenna and an amplifier to improve cellular reception inside your RV.
  They won’t create signal where none exists, but turning one bar into three can be the difference between unusable and workable internet.
  If you work from your RV, a booster is a worthy investment (~$400). It typically boosts voice and data for all carriers in range.
  Note: they require some power (draw ~1–2 amps 12V), and you must have at least a faint signal outside to amplify.
  Install is straightforward (magnet or screw-mount antenna on roof, run cable to indoor amplifier unit, and a small indoor antenna).
  In fringe areas, I’ve gotten maybe +10 dB gain – enough to go from dropping calls to holding calls. They especially help upload speed (useful for sending emails, etc.).
  However, if your camping style is deep wilderness far from towers, you might still be off-grid even with a booster.

• Antennas: If you have a dedicated hotspot or router, consider external antennas (MIMO antennas) on a pole.
  These can be directional – if you know where the tower is, pointing a yagi antenna that way can greatly enhance data speeds.
  It’s more setup (raising a mast, aiming antenna using apps like CellMapper to find tower direction), but for long-term stationary use, it can provide reliable internet where otherwise marginal.
  Some RVers mount a permanent omnidirectional antenna like a Netgear MIMO on roof – easier, but less gain than directional.

• Multiple Carriers: Coverage varies – you might have Verizon with no service in one valley but AT&T works.
  Many serious nomads carry at least two providers (e.g., a Verizon phone and AT&T hotspot). There are also reseller plans (Visible, Cricket, etc.) that offer cheaper secondary lines.
  If you must be connected, redundancy is wise. Some use a cellular router that load-balances or switches between SIMs based on signal.

Satellite Internet (Starlink etc.)

• SpaceX’s Starlink RV service has been a game changer for remote work. It’s a satellite dish you set up at camp that provides broadband internet virtually anywhere in its coverage (requires fairly clear northern sky view, minimal obstructions).
  The RV plan allows month-to-month use ($135/mo, $599 hardware as of now). Many boondockers now carry Starlink – in places with zero cell, they stream Netflix off Starlink.
  It does draw significant power (~50–100W) so ensure your solar/batteries can handle it or run on generator a bit. Also, heavy tree cover can impede it (doesn’t work well in dense forests or deep canyons).

• If you really need internet in the boonies, Starlink is becoming the go-to. It’s fast enough for video calls, etc..
  Just be mindful of the power use and the need for a large open sky. Some mount the dish on a tall pole or try to park in a clearing.
  The Astra A1’s Command Center mentions dual cellular and Starlink for reliable connectivity, highlighting how important connectivity has become even in adventure rigs.

• Other satellite options: old systems like HughesNet or Viasat are largely obsolete for RV use now (they had big dishes and very slow/high-latency service).
  Starlink has basically eaten their lunch. Satellite messengers (below) aren’t for web browsing, just texts.

Offline Preparedness

Even with boosters and Starlink, sometimes you’ll go off-grid. It’s part of the appeal of camping to disconnect. So:

• Download Maps & Media: Before losing service, download offline maps (Google Maps Offline or Gaia topography for the area).
  Also download any entertainment (Netflix allows offline downloads, Spotify music offline, Kindle books, etc.).
  Then an evening without internet can be pleasantly filled with a movie on your tablet or a good e-book by the fire.

• Plan Check-ins: If you’re going completely off-grid with no comms, let someone know (friend or family) your location and when you expect to check back in.
  It’s prudent – if you had an emergency, someone knows where to send help. You can use devices like Garmin inReach to send an “I’m okay, here’s my coordinates” ping daily via satellite if zero cell.

• Embrace the Quiet: Being unreachable isn’t always bad. We often stress connectivity, but there’s value in a day or three of true disconnection (just ensure those at home know not to panic if you don’t reply instantly during those planned off-grid times).

Two-Way Radios & Emergency Comms

• For safety when hiking or convoying with friends, FRS/GMRS radios are handy (walkie-talkies). No license needed for FRS, short range (~1-2 miles in woods).
  GMRS gives better range but requires a simple FCC license. Good for car-to-car comm (“sharp curve ahead, big pothole” to friends following) or for spouse spotting you into a site with clear comms (saves shouting).
  Also, if camped where no cell, two handheld radios let you stay in touch if one person goes for a walk etc.

• Satellite Messengers: As mentioned, devices like Garmin inReach or SPOT X let you send text messages via satellite or trigger an SOS in emergency.
  They’re invaluable for remote explorers. If you break an axle 50 miles from pavement with no cell, an inReach can summon a tow or rescue.
  They require a subscription, but basic plans aren’t too costly. For peace of mind, many off-grid RVers carry one (I do).
  Some can also report your GPS track to loved ones (so someone can see you moving on a map, or know last location if something goes wrong).

• Weather Alerts: Without cell or internet, how to get weather warnings? NOAA Weather Radio is the answer.
  A small weather radio (or multi-band ham radio or even some CB radios have WX channels) can broadcast alerts for your area (storms, wildfire evacuations, etc.).
  Keep it on if severe weather possible. If you have Starlink and a device online, it’ll work for getting weather too, but in truly no-signal, NOAA radio is old-school but reliable.

• Camp Wi-Fi: If you’re at a developed campground with Wi-Fi, note that campground Wi-Fi is often slow and spotty (everyone streams at 7pm and it crawls).
  It might be fine for email or checking web quickly, but don’t count on it for heavy work. It’s also open networks usually – use a VPN if doing anything sensitive.

• Digital Detox Balance: Even with ability to connect, consider setting aside times to not be online.
  Maybe check emails in morning then put away devices and soak in nature rest of day. Or designate “no-screen night” and just stargaze or chat by campfire.
  Connectivity is a tool, but don’t let it rule your trip. Many mention that the best part of some camps is lack of signal – forces you to be present.

• Navigation Connectivity: Already covered with offline maps, but also note if you plan to use a mapping app to get home and you have no service at camp, start your route in the app while on Wi-Fi or when you last had service – it will often keep the maps in memory to navigate out.
  Or rely on saved offline maps for the exit.

• Ham Radio / CB: Some RVers are ham radio operators – in true disasters or remote areas, ham radio can reach help when nothing else works.
  It’s a specialized hobby (requires license for ham), but if you’re going truly off-grid internationally or want that backup, it’s there.
  CB radio (no license) is mostly used by truckers on highways, not super helpful for remote SOS, but could communicate with others on same road about hazards or to ask if any bears at the campground, etc., if others are tuned in. Rarely used nowadays except in off-road groups.

In summary, staying connected on the road is very doable, but requires the right gadgets and sometimes creative solutions. Astra in its marketing emphasizes being able to work from inspiring places with its tech-forward A1 rig (Starlink, dual cell, smart home integration) – showing how important connectivity has become even in adventure rigs. With the tips above, you can tailor your connectivity level to your needs – full-on internet for working nomads, or minimal emergency contact for those seeking digital escape.

Now that we’ve covered pretty much every logistical aspect of living on the road, let’s move to actually setting up your camp upon arrival. We’ll go through the steps like leveling, stabilizing, hooking up, and making camp cozy and safe. A good setup ensures you spend less time fiddling and more time enjoying your stay.

Laundry Options

(We discussed laundry briefly under provisioning, but since the outline calls it out, we’ll recap and expand a bit in its own section.)

When you’re on the road for extended periods, you’ll eventually face the pile of dirty clothes. Unlike at home, you can’t just throw them in your own washer (unless you have a fancy rig with a washer/dryer – in which case, lucky you, just ensure you have water/sewer or enough capacity to use it). For everyone else, here are ways to handle laundry:

• Campground Laundry Rooms: Many RV parks and some public campgrounds have coin-operated laundry facilities. This is the easiest solution when available. Cost is typically $1.50–$4 per wash and similar per dry, depending on location. Plan to get some quarters (or some newer machines use credit cards or an app).
  Try to do laundry during the day when others are out hiking – machines are free and you’re not hogging them when all return in evening.

  • Bring your own detergent (many RVers carry those dissolvable laundry detergent sheets or pods to save space/mess). Also a roll of quarters if unsure of change availability.
    If machines are limited, do only as many loads at once as you can manage so others can use too.

• Laundromats in Towns: In or near most travel areas, there’s a laundromat. They handle larger loads and often have bigger machines (for blankets, etc.).
  Use Yelp or Google to find one (“laundromat near me”). Some laundromats also offer drop-off service – you leave your laundry and pick up later washed and folded (for a fee per pound).
  Could be worth it if you’re busy or just detest doing laundry – you can explore town while someone else does the work.

  • Pro tip: some laundromats have free Wi-Fi, or are near libraries or cafes where you can hang out.
    I sometimes put laundry in and then walk to a nearby cafe for an hour (setting an alarm to go back and switch loads).
    Just be mindful of not leaving stuff too long – someone might move your finished clothes out if you’re not prompt, and that’s fair if you were late.

  • Parking at laundromats: use your smaller vehicle if possible. If you must bring the RV, try to park along a street or somewhere away from busy parking lot section, as laundromats typically have small lots.

• Boondocking Laundry: If you’re out for weeks away from services and can’t wait, you can do hand laundry:

  • The classic is a bucket or basin: fill with warm water and a bit of detergent, agitate clothes by hand or with a plunger-type washer (there’s a product called “Breathing Mobile Washer” that is basically a hand plunger to help).
    Let soak, then scrub, then wring out and rinse in another bucket of clean water. Wring thoroughly (twist in towels to remove moisture).

  • Manual Devices: There are manual foot-powered washers (like the Drumi) or small portable electric washers that spin clothes.
    Some RVers carry a twin-tub portable washer (runs on inverter/generator). It washes a small load and then you switch to spin tub to remove water.
    These use surprisingly little water (maybe 5–8 gallons a load) and can be run off a moderately sized inverter.
    If you boondock often and have solar, this is an option to avoid laundromats – but you need to dispose of that grey water appropriately (pour into your grey tank or broadcast far from water sources if just soapy water).

  • Clotheslines: Drying is an issue off-grid because dryers need lots of power. Set up a clothesline (some rigs have ladder-mounted drying racks, or string a rope between trees – carefully not damaging trees).
    In dry climates, clothes can dry in an afternoon. In humid or cold, it may take longer or not fully dry – in those cases, maybe plan a laundromat trip for drying if needed, or finish inside with heater on.
    But sun and wind are free dryers! Just secure items well (a sudden gust will send your socks to the next county). Use clothespins.

  • Conserve Laundry: Extend time between washes by bringing enough clothes and re-wearing certain items that aren’t truly dirty (outer layers especially).
    In summer, you’ll sweat more – consider quick-dry fabrics that you can rinse and dry easily. In winter, you might wear base layers multiple days since you don’t sweat as much.

• Using Gyms or Truck Stops: Sometimes travelers with gym memberships (Planet Fitness, etc.) do a “shower & laundry” stop at a gym or truck stop.
  Most gyms don’t have laundry, but some truck stop travel centers (like certain Love’s or TA) have coin laundry for truckers – they are open to RVers too.
  If you’re already stopping for fuel or shower at a big travel center, ask if they have laundry machines. They’re usually clean and not too busy midday.

• Paid Services: If budget allows, many larger towns have wash-and-fold or even pickup/drop-off laundry services (through apps or local cleaners).
  If you’re staying put for a bit, you could drop laundry at a cleaner and fetch it the next day clean. It’s pricier (maybe $1-2 per pound), but an option if you’re work-heavy or allergic to laundromats.

• RV Washer/Dryers: If you have one (common in some Class As, fifth-wheels), use it wisely. They use a lot of water and fill your grey tank fast.
  If on full hookups, go for it. If off-grid, you likely can’t spare that water or power. Many combo units also take forever to dry (ventless dryers especially) – plan accordingly.
  Also carry a small amount of the HE detergent they require. Don’t overload them – small loads only. Clean the lint filter often.

• Detergent & Supplies: Carrying a huge jug of Tide isn’t space-efficient. Consider transferring detergent to a smaller bottle appropriate for your trip length or use detergent sheets or pods in a waterproof container.
  Bring a little stain remover stick for spot cleaning (you might not wash that whole shirt, just treat a spot and rinse).

• Handling Laundry in Bear Country: If tent camping in bear areas, avoid leaving clothing out that has food odors (like your bacon-frying sweatshirt).
  But in an RV, this is less concern.

• Odor Management: Damp laundry waiting to be washed can smell or mold. If you have to wait a week to do wash, ensure dirty clothes are dry (hang sweaty clothes to dry before tossing in hamper).
  Use a vented hamper or add a dryer sheet in the bag to mitigate smell. Some use vacuum seal bags for dirty clothes – keeps RV smelling fresh but be mindful trapped moisture could cause mildew, so dry them first.

• Schedule: Try to incorporate laundry on transition days or rest days. For example, if you’re staying at a campground mid-trip with facilities, do it there so you’re not carrying loads of dirty clothes into your beautiful boondock spot (and so you have fresh gear for the rest of remote time).

• Multi-task Socially: Some private RV parks have small social events at laundry (it’s a common gathering spot).
  Or you might meet fellow travelers there and swap tips. Use these chore times as a chance to chat – it makes the chore less boring!

Laundry isn’t the highlight of camping, but staying on top of it prevents the dreaded “nothing but dirty socks left” scenario. There’s something satisfying about a closet of clean clothes even when you’re off in the mountains. And a hot shower plus clean outfit after a week of dusty hiking can feel downright luxurious.

At this point, we’ve covered pretty much all aspects of day-to-day logistics. You should feel equipped to maintain your comfort, health, and communication while out camping – which means you can focus on the fun parts, like exploring and relaxing!

Now, let’s shift gear to setting up camp itself and ensuring safety and good stewardship while you enjoy it. We’ll go over the physical camp setup steps and then tie it together with safety, responsibility, and troubleshooting tips for beginners. Almost there!