Choosing the Right Destination & Campsite

Selecting a destination is more than just finding a pretty spot on the map. It’s about matching that location to your rig’s capabilities, your camping style, and even the time of year.

This section will guide you through key considerations to ensure that awesome-looking campsite is actually accessible and enjoyable for you. We’ll cover:

• Understanding your vehicle (so you don’t take a low-clearance trailer down a high-clearance road, for instance)
• Knowing the rules and permits (avoid a hefty fine or midnight knock from a ranger)
• Factoring in environmental conditions (you might love that alpine lake, but can your RV handle the steep grade to get there?)
• Evaluating the logistics of a site (size, levelness, safety)

By the end, you’ll have a checklist in mind whenever you’re picking or arriving at a camp.

Understanding Your Rig

Your rig – be it a 40-foot motorhome, a travel trailer, a camper van, or an Astra A1 expedition trailer – largely determines where you can go and what kind of spots will work for you.

Rig Size and Dimensions

Start with length, width, height, and weight. These are critical for campground limits and road access:

• Length:

  • Many campgrounds (especially older national park ones) have length limits for sites.
  • If you have a big rig (say 35+ feet), you’ll need bigger sites and more clearance to maneuver.
  • Check campground info – it usually states “suitable for up to X feet.”
  • For boondocking, length matters on tight forest roads with hairpin turns or small clearings.
  • A van or truck camper can wiggle into spots that a long trailer simply can’t.
  • If you’re set on dispersed camping with a big rig, research areas where others of your size have gone (RV forums, Campendium reviews often mention “made it in with 40’ fifth-wheel” or not).
  • Also consider combined length if towing (some campgrounds measure total length).

• Width & Slide-outs:

  • Most RVs are 8 to 8.5 feet wide (not counting mirrors).
  • With slide-outs, you need extra lateral space at a site.
  • When picking a campsite, visualize or ask: will slides clear trees or posts?
  • In tight campgrounds, you might favor pull-through sites or end spots for more breathing room.
  • If you have multiple slides, especially opposite ones, you essentially need a site as wide as your RV + slides extended (~12+ feet).
  • If it’s a squeeze, maybe only extend on one side (choose site side accordingly).
  • Pro tip: bring a tape measure on foot when assessing a back-in site’s width or an off-grid clearing, rather than eyeball.

• Height:

  • This is HUGE for route planning.
  • Know your exact height (with AC units, satellite domes, etc.) to the inch.
  • Many big rigs are around 12–13.5 feet tall.
  • Low clearance obstacles (bridges, tunnels, even low-hanging branches on small roads) can be deadly for RVs.
  • If your travels include the eastern U.S., beware of parkways and older bridges – some have clearances of 10–12 feet that will wreck an RV.
  • Use an RV-safe GPS or research low clearance routes.
  • In the west, most main roads are truck-friendly (14’ or higher). But off the beaten path, watch for low trees; if you hear antenna scraping branches, that’s a sign to go very slow or turn around if it gets worse.
  • Also, low height can restrict staying at some “alternative” spots – e.g., certain covered parking or drive-thru attractions.

• Weight:

  • Two angles here:
    1. Can bridges and roads handle you? Many secondary roads have weight limits (posted on signs and maps). A heavy Class A or truck-trailer combo might exceed small bridge limits (often 10 tons on rural bridges).
    2. Soft ground: a 20,000 lb motorhome might sink into mud where a Jeep camper would not. When boondocking, assess ground firmness.
  • Second angle: your own vehicle limits (tow ratings, etc.). Don’t push a marginal tow vehicle up steep grades with an overweight trailer – it’s unsafe.
  • Know your Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) and don’t exceed it.
  • Also, steep descents test your brakes – weight matters there for stopping distance.

Clearance and Terrain

Consider ground clearance (the height of your undercarriage) and drivetrain:

• If you have a standard RV with low-hanging plumbing or sidesteps, off-roading is not your friend.

• Forest service roads can have deep ruts or rocks that will snag low-clearance rigs.

• The Astra A1, for instance, was designed with high ground clearance for exactly this reason – it can handle rugged trails.

• If yours isn’t, stick to well-maintained gravel or paved surfaces for camping.

• Pay attention to approach/departure angles too (the overhangs): a sharp dip can cause the rear bumper to drag (we call that “tail swing” or “bottoming out”).

• Watch for this entering uneven gas stations, dirt road washouts, etc. Using a spotter can save you from ripping a stabilizer jack off.

• 2WD vs 4WD:

  • Many boondock sites are reachable by 2WD in dry conditions, but if you have to traverse soft sand, loose gravel inclines, or muddy stretches, 4x4 (and decent off-road tires) are a godsend.
  • Know your vehicle: if towing a trailer, your truck’s capability and the trailer’s weight distribution matter on rough roads.
  • If you’re not confident, don’t push it – you don’t want to be the one stuck requiring an expensive off-road tow.
  • Some off-pavement roads might be okay for a van but not for a huge class A simply due to width or turning radius.

• Think about clearance under the middle (driveshaft, tanks) and at the back (often the lowest point on trailers is the rear bumper or dump pipe).

• If the road has a big hump or ditch, go slow and maybe at an angle to avoid high-centering.

• Use skid pads or wheels on the back if you have them (some trailers have little rollers).

Towing Capacity and Road Suitability

If you’re pulling a trailer or driving a heavy RV, consider the roads you plan to take:

• Steep Grades:

  • Long, steep roads (like mountain passes) can overtax engines and transmissions on the way up, and brakes on the way down.
  • Check your tow vehicle’s manual for grade limits and use lower gears.
  • If your rig is very slow on grades, use pull-outs to let traffic by (courteous and often required by law if 5+ vehicles behind).
  • Some grades might simply be too extreme – for example, certain scenic drives disallow vehicles over a length or weight due to tight curves or steepness (e.g., many national parks have such warnings).
  • Plan alternate routes if needed (maybe take the longer but flatter highway instead of the very steep shortcut).

• Hairpin Turns:

  • Road suitability also includes curves.
  • A typical big rig can’t handle extremely sharp switchbacks without crossing into the oncoming lane.
  • Some back roads to beautiful sites have those – if you have data or local advice, find out.
  • For instance, someone might say “I got my 30’ trailer up that forest road, but it was tight on two switchbacks.” That tells you it’s borderline.

• Unpaved Road Length:

  • How far are you willing to drive on washboard or potholes? It can shake your RV’s interior apart if too long.
  • Going 5-10 miles down a bumpy road is okay if you take it slow, but 50 miles might be brutal.
  • Factor that into destination choice.
  • Sometimes a campground 2 miles off pavement is better than a boondock 20 miles of rough road away, just to preserve your sanity and RV condition.

• Fuel and Engine Strain:

  • Remote roads mean fewer services.
  • Ensure your tank is full and engine coolant, etc., are in good shape before tackling a challenging route.
  • If you have a turbo-diesel, remember high altitudes reduce power (thin air) – your towing capacity effectively diminishes in the mountains.
  • Propane appliances too (like fridge) may act up above 8,000 ft without adjustment.

Power, Water, and Waste Systems Overview

Know the limits of your rig’s house systems because that influences site choice:

• Battery and Solar:

  • If you rely on solar for power and plan a shady forest camp, you might struggle.
  • Conversely, open desert is great for solar but means running A/C might be needed (which demands generator or shore power).
  • Understand how long your batteries last off-grid doing what you normally do.
  • For example, if you have a modest battery bank that runs your lights and water pump for two days, then camping three nights with no recharge might leave you in the dark.
  • That could push you to choose a developed site with electric on night 3, or to bring a generator.
  • When picking destinations, consider sun exposure vs. your power needs.
  • Astra’s A1, for instance, is decked with a large solar array and big lithium bank, so it seeks sun – a dense forest site might underutilize its capabilities (or you deploy portable panels in a clearing).

• Fresh Water Capacity:

  • Can your rig hold enough water for your planned stay?
  • If your goal is a remote 7-day boondock and you have a 50-gallon tank, you’ll likely be fine with conservation.
  • But if you only have a 20-gallon tank, you might need to bring extra jugs or plan a refill mid-trip (e.g., drive to a nearby campground or spigot).
  • Thus, if water is scarce at the destination (dry camp), ensure you fill up before you go.
  • Some campgrounds at parks have fill stations – use them before heading to your off-grid spot.
  • Also, bigger tanks mean heavier rig – ensure roads to site can handle weight (no weight-restricted bridges).

• Waste Tank Capacity:

  • Similar story – how many days can you go before grey and black tanks are full?
  • If you have a composting toilet (like Astra A1 does), black tank isn’t an issue; if not, a three-day weekend is fine on most RV toilets, but a week might fill it if multiple people.
  • Grey tanks fill fastest with showers and dishwashing.
  • You might choose a site near a pit toilet (so you can use that for some duties to extend your tanks) or plan a mid-stay dump run (some people boondock near a highway where they can zip out to a truck stop dump).
  • If that’s not feasible, limit your stay to what your tanks can hold.

• Climate Comfort Needs:

  • Does your rig have good heating/cooling for the destination’s climate?
  • If you go mountain camping in autumn, night temps could drop below freezing. Are your tanks and pipes protected (heated or insulated)?
  • If not, you might stick to milder climates or camp where shore power is available to run a space heater.
  • Or for hot summers, can you survive with fans or do you absolutely need A/C at night?
  • If need A/C off-grid, you’ll require a generator or hefty solar+battery.
  • This might push you to choose an on-grid campground in very hot weather (for electric hookup), unless you have a rig like the A1 built to run A/C off its battery bank.
  • Also consider altitude – if you or your rig aren’t well-suited (older engines can struggle at high altitudes without adjustment, or humans might get altitude sickness above 10k feet), maybe avoid extreme high camps.

In essence, know thy vehicle. Before heading somewhere challenging, do a realistic assessment: Can my rig get there and be okay there? When in doubt, err on the side of caution or get more info. Online communities are great for this – you can often find someone who’s taken a similar rig to that destination and learn from their experience (e.g., “accessible with 2WD in dry season, but 4x4 recommended if recent rain,” or “road is fine until last half-mile which has soft sand – big rigs turned around” – these tidbits are gold). Astra, having engineered a rig specifically for rugged travel, would emphasize matching the journey to the vehicle’s design.

If you find that a certain dream spot is out of reach for your current setup, don’t despair – you might plan differently (maybe camp nearby at a base accessible site and day-hike or rent a 4x4 tour to see it). Or over time, upgrade aspects of your rig (better tires, add solar, get tank heaters, etc.) to expand your range.

One more tip: do a test run of something slightly pushing your envelope. For example, take a short dirt road to a closer boondock to gauge how your trailer handles it, before committing to a 20-mile washboard road. Each experience will build your confidence in understanding your rig’s sweet spots and limits.

Permits, Regulations & Legalities

Nobody likes getting a ticket or being asked to leave a site at dusk because of an overlooked rule. Doing a bit of homework on permits and regulations ensures your trip goes smoothly and keeps you on the right side of the law.

Here are key things to check for each destination:

Dispersed-Camping Permits (BLM, USFS, State Lands)

As mentioned under boondocking, most federal public lands do not require a specific permit for typical dispersed camping in small groups. However, always verify if the area has special management rules. For instance:

• Certain BLM areas now have free use permits (particularly in Utah and Arizona around heavy-use spots). They might be self-serve at a kiosk or online. These are usually to inform you of rules and track usage.
• Some National Forests might require a fire permit in fire season (like California – a free online permit to use a campfire or stove on USFS land).
• State lands: A big one – e.g., Arizona Trust Land permit (recreation permit) is about $15 and legally required to camp on trust lands. Many people ignore it, but it’s good to have in case an officer stops by. Other states like Wyoming, Nevada, etc., generally allow dispersed camping on state lands but it’s often less clearly marked or known – a quick web search “State name + dispersed camping permit” will clarify.
• Canada: If heading into Canada, non-residents should look up provincial rules (Ontario as noted requires a Crown land camping permit for non-residents).
• Group camping: If you have a larger group (over a certain number of people/vehicles), you might need a group use permit even on lands that don’t require it for individuals – check limits (often groups over 75 require a permit on federal lands).
• Timing: Some places only allow dispersed camping seasonally (to protect wildlife during breeding, etc.).
• Bottom line: check the managing agency’s website or call. It might take 5 minutes to ensure you’re set. Also carry proof of any permits (print them or have them saved) in case asked.

Fees, Seasonal Closures, and Permit-Free Zones

Some areas are free to camp but have a day-use fee or parking fee you still must pay (rare for dispersed sites, but example: certain wildlife management areas might have an entry fee). Many places have seasonal closures: e.g., forest roads gated during winter or muddy spring, campgrounds closed outside summer, BLM areas closed for fawning season or fire risk. Research when destinations are accessible. If a road is marked closed, do not bypass the gate – even if your rig could physically proceed, it’s off-limits (could be for sensitive habitat or washed-out road ahead).

• Permit-free zones: Conversely, some tourist-heavy areas have designated zones where you can camp without a site-specific permit (like dispersed corridors), but often with extra rules like required portable toilet or 7-day stay instead of 14. Know those differences.
• It’s wise to have the local ranger district or BLM office phone number saved. They can give up-to-date info on closures due to fire or weather.

Local Rules: Fire Bans, Quiet Hours, Generator Restrictions

• Fire Bans:
  We’ve touched on it, but it bears repeating: in high fire danger, there may be complete bans on open flame (campfires, charcoal). Sometimes even propane stoves are disallowed (rare, but in extreme conditions). Always check current fire restrictions for the county or forest you’re in (usually posted on agency websites and at entry signs). Getting caught with a banned campfire can result in hefty fines – or worse, you might inadvertently start a wildfire (and be liable for suppression costs). When fires are allowed, use existing rings and fully extinguish – do not leave even smoldering coals; winds can pick up embers and cause havoc.

• Quiet Hours:
  Campgrounds typically enforce quiet hours (often 10 PM to 6 AM) – meaning no loud noises, music, or generator use during those times. Even in dispersed areas, it’s good etiquette to keep it down at night if others are camped within earshot. Generators in campgrounds often have specific allowed hours (e.g., only 8 AM–8 PM and not during mid-day quiet time in national parks). Know the campground rules – they’re usually given at check-in or posted. If you rely on a generator for power, plan to charge up during allowed times and have batteries/inverter for overnight quiet hours.

• Generator use in general:
  In some public campgrounds, there are generator-free loops or zones for tent campers – if you have a generator, don’t park in those. If you boondock near others, consider distance and line-of-sight (sound travels; a small inverter generator is fairly quiet but not silent). Also, never leave a running generator unattended for long – aside from noise, it’s a theft risk and safety hazard if it runs out of fuel, etc.

• Pet Rules:
  Not a “permit” but a regulation: campgrounds require dogs on leash (often 6 foot max) and never to be left unattended. And of course, pick up after them. On trails in national parks, dogs are often not allowed at all. Know where your furry friends can go, and plan accordingly (some travelers use doggy daycare or a rover.com sitter if they want to do a non-dog-friendly park activity).

• Stay Limits:
  Developed campgrounds often have stay limits (like 14 days). Dispersed is typically 14 as well on federal lands. Don’t plan to homestead indefinitely; move when required (usually at least 25 miles away or out of the district before returning, as some regs specify).

• Alcohol rules:
  Some campgrounds (especially state parks) prohibit alcohol. It might not be heavily enforced unless you’re rowdy, but be aware if you’re enjoying a beer outside, technically it could be an issue.

• Fishing/Hunting Licenses:
  If you plan to fish at your campsite’s creek or hunt in the area, ensure you have appropriate licenses and it’s the right season. Also, observe firearm discharge rules – in many areas around campgrounds, shooting is not allowed for safety.

Environmental Regulations (Don’t Transport Firewood, etc.)

There are sometimes rules aimed at conservation:

• Firewood:
  Many parks and forests ask that you not bring firewood from far away to prevent invasive pests (like emerald ash borer). Buy or collect locally (where allowed). Some even ban outside wood completely – check signs.

• Gray Water:
  Some campgrounds allow you to drain dishwater in bushes, others forbid any dumping. Most developed ones want you to use the dump station or sink disposals. Don’t dump grey on the ground unless clearly permitted and done responsibly (strain food particles).

• Drone usage:
  Many parks (all national parks, for example) ban drones. Even on other lands, there may be temporary flight restrictions (TFRs) for wildlife or firefighting. Check rules if you plan to use one – e.g., national forest generally okay if away from people, but respect local posted rules. In national parks, drones are prohibited and fines have been issued.

• Cultural sites:
  It’s illegal to disturb or take artifacts (arrowheads, fossils, etc.) from public lands. If your destination is near a historical or archaeological site, enjoy looking but don’t dig or pocket anything. Also, some sensitive areas (petroglyphs, ruins) might have special rules or even permit requirements to visit.

Enforcement

While you might go years without a ranger encounter, it does happen. Keep permits and ID handy. If politely asked to show your dispersed camping permit or fishing license, do so. They’re generally friendly if you’re making an effort. However, some rules carry stiff penalties: for example, starting a campfire during a Stage 3 fire ban can lead to a $5,000 fine and even imprisonment. So those aren’t to be taken lightly. Use this guide and other resources to stay informed. Being a responsible camper not only avoids fines, but it builds goodwill so that agencies continue to allow these activities.

In short, the paperwork and rules part of camping isn’t the most fun, but it’s far easier to handle from your home or on a cell connection before you’re out in the boonies. Make a checklist when heading to a new state or park: “Do I need any permit for camping or fires? Any special regulations I should know?” A quick search or call can save a trip from getting spoiled by a technicality. Once you’ve handled these, you can camp with confidence that you won’t get that dreaded ranger knock or note on your windshield. Instead, any interactions will likely be positive (“Good morning! Just checking – oh you have your permit, great. Enjoy your stay!”).

Next, we’ll consider how the environment itself affects your choices – beach vs. mountain vs. desert each come with their own challenges and joys. Let’s explore environmental considerations so you pick destinations that align with your comfort and preparation.

Environmental Considerations

Every environment offers a unique camping experience – and unique challenges. The beach, for example, promises sun and surf but comes with sand in everything and salty air; mountains offer crisp air and views but can bring storms or thin oxygen.

Let’s discuss some common environments and what to keep in mind for each:

Beach Camping

There’s nothing like falling asleep to the sound of waves. Beach camping (whether on ocean or large lake shores) requires special care:

• Sand and Traction:
  Getting an RV or van onto a beach can be tricky. Know the rules – many beaches don’t allow vehicle access except in designated areas. If you are allowed to drive on the beach (like certain Florida or Texas beaches):

  • Tire pressure is key: deflate your tires a bit to increase footprint (many go down to ~20 PSI), carry boards or traction mats, and have a shovel.
  • Avoid soft, dry sand – try to stay on the firmer wet sand near the water’s edge but not too close (tide!).
  • Keep momentum if driving through soft patches; don’t brake suddenly.
  • If you do get stuck, lower tire pressure further and try to back out the way you came (the ruts you made are compacted).
  • Travel at low tide if driving along the shore, as sand is firmer and you have more room.

• Tides and Flooding:
  This is critical. Always check tide tables when beach camping. Park well above the high tide line – look for the dry sand edge or debris line from last high tide. Many an RVer has woken up to waves lapping at their wheels (or worse, a flooded engine). Also be aware of weather – a storm surge can make tides higher than normal. Give yourself a big buffer; it’s better to walk a bit to the water than risk being inundated. If camping near a tidal river or estuary, know that heavy rains upstream can also cause water to rise where you are.

• Corrosion & Salt:
  The sea air is corrosive to metal. If you’re camping multiple days, understand that salt will coat your rig. Rinse off the undercarriage with fresh water when you can (some beach towns have car washes catering to this). Also, salt spray can leave a film on solar panels – wipe them down for efficiency.

• Wind and Weather:
  Beaches can be windy, often in the afternoon and with occasional strong gusts or even sandstorms. Secure all awnings (probably best not to deploy awning at all unless it’s very calm). Use sand/snow tent stakes if pitching any tents or sunshades – normal stakes pull out in sand. Wind can kick sand into every crevice – store gear in bins or up off the ground. Also, temps might be moderate but the sun reflection off water and sand can cause quick sunburn; have sunscreen and perhaps a windbreak or beach umbrella for shade (anchor it well).

• Driving Hazards:
  Salt flats or beaches might look drivable, but watch out for hidden hazards: soft pockets, logs, or even critters (sea turtle nests in some areas are protected – driving over those is a big no-no). Some beaches have areas of quicksand-like sand (often near freshwater seep zones). If you see dark, very wet sand that quakes when stepped on, avoid driving there.

• Wildlife:
  On certain coasts, you may have wildlife like seals, sea turtles, or birds around. Give them distance, especially during nesting seasons (some beaches close sections for bird nesting – heed signs). And for goodness’ sake, don’t feed the seagulls unless you want 200 of their closest friends bombarding your site.

• Night safety:
  The ocean is dynamic. If camping on a remote beach, think about what you’d do if a rare event (tsunami, etc.) occurred – not likely, but it’s good to know evacuation routes (like the road back to high ground). Realistically, more common is simply a change in weather – be ready to move if an unexpected gale or lightning storm comes; the flat, open beach is not ideal in lightning (retreat to vehicle). Also, secure or stow any trash – beach critters like raccoons or bold seagulls will raid anything left out.

• Beach camping can be magical – sunrise over the water, campfires under the stars (if allowed – some beaches ban fires except in provided rings). Just keep vehicles off sensitive dunes and always, always leave it cleaner than you found it (beaches are plagued by litter washing ashore; do a mini cleanup).

Mountain Camping

Towering peaks and forested slopes offer scenic camps and cooler temperatures, but also bring altitude and weather concerns:

• Altitude:
  Higher elevations (above ~5,000 feet) have thinner air and colder nights. As mentioned, propane appliances might not burn as efficiently at high altitudes without adjustment – for example, some RV furnaces and fridges have recommended altitude limits or require a different orifice for extended high-altitude use. Watch for symptoms of altitude sickness in yourself: shortness of breath, headache, nausea – acclimate gradually if you can (maybe spend a night at mid-elevation before going extremely high). Also, water boils at lower temperature up high, so cooking takes longer – factor that in if you’re at 10,000 feet making pasta!

• Steep, Winding Access:
  The drive to mountain camps can be challenging (we covered a lot under road conditions). Use low gear coming down to spare brakes. If your engine is struggling to cool on ascent, turn off A/C and take breaks. In mountains, engine braking is your friend – downshift on descents to avoid brake fade. If an area is known for difficult roads (like some Colorado passes or narrow shelf roads), consider leaving big rigs at lower basecamps and exploring with a smaller vehicle or on foot.

• Weather Swings:
  Mountain weather is notoriously fickle. A sunny warm day can turn to a thunderstorm in an hour. Plan for rain and wind even if forecast is clear – bring layers, solid tent stakes (if tenting), and be ready to batten down the hatches on your RV (awnings in, windows closed) quickly. In summer, afternoon thunderstorms are common in many ranges (Rockies, Sierras, etc.) – plan hikes or outdoor activities for morning and seek shelter by 2-3 pm when storms often roll through. Also, mountains can create microclimates – one valley might get rain while the next is dry.

• Cold Nights:
  Even in summer, nights can be cold in mountains, especially if clear (radiational cooling). Pack a decent sleeping bag or blankets. If using an RV furnace, ensure you have enough propane (and battery for blower) to last – or use a Mr. Buddy heater safely with ventilation. If you camp in shoulder seasons, be prepared for freezing temps and possibly snow flurries. Have a plan to prevent your pipes/tanks from freezing (some people add RV antifreeze to holding tanks in late fall trips, or use tank heaters if equipped). A small electric heater is great if you have shore power at a mountain campground.

• Wildlife (Bears, etc.):
  Mountain forests are prime bear country. As noted earlier, secure your food and scented items (use bear lockers if provided, or keep in locked vehicle). Familiarize yourself with bear-safe habits. Also, keep a clean camp – bears that get human food often have to be euthanized by authorities, so it’s literally life or death for them that you don’t let them snack on your cooler. Other wildlife like elk, moose, mountain goats may wander near – give them space (a moose can charge if it feels cornered). And those cute chipmunks will chew into bags to get trail mix, so stow things securely.

• Fire Considerations:
  Up high, wood might be wet or sparse (tree line areas). Use dead/down wood only. Be mindful of wind – a campfire in gusty mountain wind can throw sparks far. Always have water ready to douse. And at altitude, water boils away faster, so drown that fire extra well (the water may evaporate before fully cooling coals, tricking you).

• UV Exposure:
  At altitude, UV radiation is stronger (about 4% increase per 1,000 feet). So you might sunburn quicker – wear sunscreen even if it’s cool.

• Lightning:
  Mountain peaks and ridges are lightning magnets. If caught outside in a storm above treeline, crouch low in a depression – but really, try to avoid being in that situation. At camp, inside a hard-sided vehicle is safe. Avoid standing under isolated tall trees.

• Mountain camps are often incredibly rewarding – starry skies (less atmosphere to look through), quiet except for the wind in pines, and views for days. Just come prepared with that extra fleece and maybe some warm drinks by the fire.

Desert Camping

Deserts (like the Mojave, Sonoran, or high deserts like the Great Basin) offer stark beauty: red rocks, cacti, open vistas. They also bring extreme temperatures and unique needs:

• Extreme Heat and Sun:
  Deserts can get dangerously hot in daytime (100°F+). Plan your activities accordingly – hike at dawn or dusk, seek shade midday. Bring double the water you think you need, then double it again. Dehydration and heatstroke are real threats. Always have a water reserve in your vehicle (I carry at least a few gallons extra). Use sun protection (wide hat, sunscreen, light long sleeves). Note that dry heat can deceive – you won’t notice sweat as it evaporates, so drink continuously even if you don’t feel soaked. If you start feeling headache or dizzy, get to shade and hydrate/electrolytes.

• Cold Nights:
  Deserts often swing to cold at night (because dry air doesn’t hold heat). You might need A/C in afternoon but a jacket after dark. Be ready for both extremes. Keep an eye on forecasts – desert temps can drop 30-40 degrees overnight easily.

• Sparse Facilities:
  Some desert areas have no natural water or shade for miles. This means you should bring your own shade (an awning or shade cloth) and plan to create a comfortable camp. I sometimes set up a tarp shelter to augment little desert shrubs’ shade. Also, note that in low desert, solar panels excel (tons of sun hours), but be careful of heat on electronics/batteries – some charge controllers or inverter derate in extreme heat.

• Flash Floods:
  Dry washes and beautiful slot canyons can become death traps in rare heavy rains. If camping in a wash (which you generally shouldn’t, but some wide washes are tempting flat spots), know the wider weather pattern. A thunderstorm 20 miles upstream can send a wall of water down a canyon on a sunny day where you are. Best practice: camp on higher ground above any obvious flood channels. When driving, never cross a flooded road – six inches of moving water can carry a car away. In monsoon season (late summer in Southwest), be extra cautious; maybe camp on a bench or plateau rather than in valley bottoms.

• Sand and Traction:
  Similar to beach advice – desert sand can bog you. Many desert boondock spots have hard-packed ground, but if you venture onto dune fields or very soft terrain, 4x4 and aired-down tires are your friends. Carry traction boards if alone. A small shovel can dig you out of moderate stucks. Also, cactus hazards: beware where you step or park – some cholla cacti bits on ground can puncture tires or certainly hurt feet/paws. I always wear closed shoes when walking around desert camps, no flip-flops, due to thorny plants and critters.

• Wildlife:
  Deserts have rattlesnakes, scorpions, and spiders like black widows. They’re not out to get you, but be cautious especially at night or early morning. Check your shoes or boots before putting them on if left outside (scorpions or spiders might hide). Use a flashlight at night to scan for snakes (their scales might reflect). Keep tent zippers closed. Dogs on leash to prevent them poking into burrows. That said, encounters are rare if you don’t harass them – snakes feel your footsteps and usually slither away. If you hear a rattle, freeze until you locate the snake, then slowly back away.

• Insects:
  Surprisingly, some deserts have intense bugs at times – after rare rains, mosquitoes can breed in temporary pools. Also, gnats or “no-see-ums” at dusk by riverbanks. Have a head net or repellent just in case – desert bugs are less predictable because they depend on weather events.

• Firewood and Fires:
  Deserts often have little to no firewood (and cutting live desert wood is a big no-no; those slow-growing trees need to be preserved). It’s better to bring your own firewood or use a propane fire pit during fire bans. Also, dry desert vegetation ignites easily – clear a wide area around a fire and be extremely careful with ashes (wind can pick up in the night and carry a spark). Many desert campers forego campfires entirely in high risk periods and enjoy the stars instead.

• Light Pollution and Stars:
  On the upside, deserts at night are phenomenal for stargazing (usually low humidity and far from city lights). Embrace that – maybe bring a star map or an app for constellations. It’s one of the joys of desert camping.

• Cell Signal:
  Oddly, some deserts have great cell coverage (flat terrain) if near highways, but remote basins can be dead zones. Plan communication accordingly.

Forest Camping

Whether it’s a lush temperate rainforest in the Pacific Northwest or a boreal forest up north, camping among trees has its own considerations:

• Dense Trees and Solar/Starlink:
  If you rely on solar panels or Starlink satellite internet, heavy tree canopy can impede both. You might need to find a clearing or accept limited power/connectivity. One trick: if using portable solar, move them to a sun patch or at the edge of camp road where sun peeks through.

• Widowmakers:
  In any wooded site, look up before setting up. Dead trees or branches (“widowmakers”) can fall on your rig or tent, especially in wind. Don’t camp under a partially fallen tree or large dead limb. After storms, be extra cautious as saturated ground and wind can topple seemingly healthy trees too.

• Rain and Dampness:
  Forests often mean more precipitation or at least dew. Make sure your tent/RV is well sealed. It helps to have a tarp to create a dry hangout area if prolonged rain (set up tarp high between trees). Pack away gear at night or elevate it – damp ground can soak things. In rainforests, consider that nothing will fully dry out – accept a bit of mustiness or bring gear to manage (like an extra towel).

• Bugs:
  Woods can have lots of insects, especially near water. Mosquitoes in summer, ticks in spring, flies, etc. Use repellent, wear long sleeves/pants at dusk. For ticks, do tick checks daily (Lyme disease is a risk in many forested regions – Northeast, Midwest, etc.). Using permethrin-treated clothing can reduce ticks. If you have pets, ensure they have flea/tick prevention.

• Wildfire Considerations:
  Not so much in rainforests, but in dry forests (pines of the West), be very mindful of campfires. A stray spark in a pine needle bed can start a fire. In some pine forests, even if fires are allowed, I opt to use a contained fire pit or just skip it if conditions feel risky (hot, dry, windy).

• Noise:
  Forests can actually amplify certain noises (like an RV generator echoing through the trees). Sound carries in quiet woods at night. So even if dispersed, if others are a quarter-mile away, they might hear loud music or a running engine. Enjoy the natural silence – many of us camp in forests for the tranquil rustle of leaves and bird songs. Save running the generator for when you truly need it and during daytime.

• Visibility and Navigation:
  In thick forests, it’s easy to get turned around since you can’t see landmarks. When hiking or wandering from camp, use GPS or mark waypoints (or good old-fashioned marking tape, as long as you remove it). Even around camp, differentiate your spot – many people have nearly gotten lost just going to gather firewood and coming back to the wrong creek drainage. A unique flag or item at your site can help identify it if the area has multiple similar spots.

• Allergies:
  Some people get allergies in forests (pollen, mold). Keep some antihistamines if you’re prone.

• Elevation/Weather:
  Many forests are in mountains, so combine earlier mountain considerations if applicable (cool nights, storms).

Other Environments:

• Grasslands/Prairies:
  Similar to desert in terms of exposure (sun, wind) but without the heat extremes usually. Wind is a big factor – nothing to block it, so tent stakes and anchored awnings are a must. Lightning strikes are also a risk in open plains – your RV might be the tallest object, so implement lightning safety (stay inside during storms).

• Snow/Ice (Winter camping):
  If you venture into winter environments, that’s a whole skillset of its own (insulating your rig, dealing with frozen plumbing, driving on snow). We won’t cover it deeply here, but definitely research winter RVing techniques if planning that (like skirting your RV or using diesel heaters).

• Swamps/Jungles:
  High humidity, tons of bugs, and muddy ground. Elevate gear, use hardcore insect protection, and be cautious of critters like alligators or snakes in swampy zones (e.g., Everglades area). Also mold can grow fast on damp items – dry things out when you can.

The key with environments is to adapt and be prepared. If you know what’s coming (be it intense sun or lots of mosquitoes), you can pack and plan accordingly. Embrace what’s special about each environment – maybe you’ll plan your power usage around the abundant sun of the desert, or bring binoculars to a forest known for wildlife. At Astra, we’ve built our vehicles (like the A1) to handle a wide range of conditions – thick insulation for cold, strong solar for sun, filtration for dusty environments. We as travelers should similarly outfit ourselves with knowledge and gear suited to where we roam.

By considering these environmental factors in choosing your destination, you’re far less likely to be caught off guard. Instead, you’ll be that camper who planned for the bugs, set up camp above the high tide, parked under the one shady tree on the prairie, and had a fantastic time because of it.

Next up: we’ll zero in on specific factors in choosing a campsite (beyond the big picture of environment) – things like how to evaluate a site’s levelness, privacy, safety, and road access right at the micro level of “Is this spot the one?”. This will help you decide between several potential sites when you arrive at a destination.

Factors in Choosing a Site

So you’ve picked a general area or campground – now, which specific spot should you occupy? Whether you’re browsing campground maps or scouting a dispersed area, it’s good to have a mental checklist of site-specific factors. Here are some key ones:

Rig Size and Maneuverability

We touched on matching sites to your rig dimensions, but on the ground it looks like: Does the site have a long enough driveway or pad for your rig (and tow vehicle, if applicable) without sticking out into the road? If you reserved a site, the stated length is a clue – a 30-foot site likely won’t handle a 35’ trailer plus truck. Some campgrounds have pull-through sites, which are easiest for big rigs; back-ins require more maneuvering space (watch for tight turns between trees or boulders). If you’re self-scouring for dispersed sites, look for evidence of similar-sized rigs having used it – e.g., tire tracks or a clearing big enough to turn around in. You don’t want to get down a narrow road and find you can’t turn your trailer around.

• Also consider slope: a site might be big enough but on a grade that exceeds what your levelers can handle or what’s comfortable. If your rig is long, even a slight slope front-to-back can mean significant leveling needed (and you may run out of blocks or jack length). Try to eyeball how level a spot is before committing (more on levelness below).
• For motorhomes towing a car, ensure there’s space to park the toad too (or that you can detach it and park it elsewhere if needed).
• In open campgrounds, sometimes a “pull-through” can be improvised by driving through an adjacent empty site when allowed – but don’t count on that.
• If you have slide-outs, mentally map out their extension clearance at the site. For instance, if there’s a tree or power pedestal, will a slide clear it? You might need to park slightly offset within the site to accommodate.

Ground Levelness and Stability

A level campsite is a joy, an unlevel one can be a headache. How to tell? If in a campground, look at the parking pad – is it paved or gravel? If paved, it’s often pretty level by design (maybe a slight slope for drainage). If it’s gravel or dirt, you might see by how other rigs are parked (are they using a bunch of blocks under one side?). If you’re first there, walk it: set a small round object (like a water bottle) down and see if it rolls notably. Use a bubble level on your phone placed on the ground.

• If uneven, decide if it’s within your leveling ability. A site that’s only a couple inches off side-to-side can be fixed with a couple blocks; if it’s severely off (like you visibly notice one end of your RV would be much higher), it might be more hassle than it’s worth – consider another site if available.

• Forest and dispersed sites are rarely perfectly flat. Sometimes you can rearrange a bit – e.g., park diagonally across a slight slope to reduce tilt. Carry enough leveling blocks for when you can’t avoid a slope. If a site is otherwise awesome but a bit sloped, you can make do with creative leveling (I’ve dug little trenches for wheels on the high side or built rock ramps for the low side in primitive camps – do this only if low-impact and fill holes back in later).

• Check the stability of the ground: is it solid or will your jacks sink? Soft loamy soil or sand might require wider jack pads to distribute weight. Muddy ground might mean you level now, but by morning one side sunk an inch – that happens. In such cases, consider re-checking level after a day and adjust if necessary.

• If you’re in a campground, some older ones were built when RVs were smaller; the parking spots might be a bit uneven or short. You might have to park with tires at the extreme end of the pad to get level or to have room.

• Tip: If tent camping alongside an RV, also look for a flat tent spot free of roots and rocks – it’s part of site quality for mixed camping.

Sun and Shade Exposure

Ask yourself, do I want shade or solar gain here? This depends on season and needs:

• In hot climates or summer, a shady site under trees can be 10-15°F cooler inside your RV, saving you from frying (especially if you don’t have electric hookup for A/C). In colder times, a sunny spot might be welcome for warmth and solar charging.
• Also consider morning vs. afternoon sun: e.g., a site on an east-facing slope gets nice early sun (dry the dew, warm you up), whereas west-facing might stay cool in morning but then get hot sun in late day. If you rely on solar panels, you’ll prefer more open sky. Perhaps park with your panels facing south if possible (tilted panels or Astra’s roof array would catch maximum rays midday).
• If you have a satellite dish for TV or Starlink internet, you need a clear view of the southern sky (for Dish/DirecTV) or north-ish sky at about 35° elevation (for Starlink in US). A heavily treed site might block connectivity.
• Similarly, if you’re at a scenic location, think about view from your doorway or preferred window. Maybe you want to orient to see the sunset over the lake. Just don’t sacrifice safety/comfort entirely for view – but if everything else is equal, why not have that vista out your window?
• Note wind direction: in exposed sites (like deserts or prairies), if there’s a prevailing wind, you might park so your RV blocks the wind for your camp area or orient so strong winds hit the nose (more aerodynamic) rather than broadside.
• Shade considerations also include where you set up camp stuff: e.g., is there a tree to hang a hammock or to sit under for lunch? In dispersed sites especially, the natural shade can dictate how pleasant midday is.
• Bugs & Shade:
  Interestingly, shade can sometimes mean more bugs (damp wooded areas = mosquitoes), whereas a breezy sunny spot might have fewer. If mosquitoes are around, some say it’s better to camp in a bit of open breeze – they don’t like wind. But if it’s hot and still, shade is still your friend and use repellent.

Proximity to Amenities

In campgrounds, consider how close you want to be to restrooms, water, and other facilities:

• Being near the bathroom is convenient for nighttime trips or if you have kids. But it also means more foot traffic and perhaps odor if it’s a vault toilet. Similarly, near the water spigot means people might walk through your site to get water. If that bothers you, pick a site a little away.
• Playground or pool proximity: Great if you want your kids to play there (and you to keep an eye without going far). Not great if you dislike the sound of joyous screaming in the evening.
• Trash dumpsters: nice to be near for easy cleanup, but can attract noise (and critters like raccoons at night banging lids). Also sometimes smell in heat.
• Camp Host site: Often at entrance – being near them can feel reassuring if you like having help nearby, but some might feel they’re being watched (the host usually doesn’t care unless you break rules). Up to you – I’ve had lovely chats camping next to hosts and got tips.
• Privacy vs. access: Corner or end sites often have more privacy (one neighbor instead of two, or some extra space). Sites backing onto woods or a lake rather than other sites also feel nicer. But those might be farther from facilities. Decide what matters – families often want near playground and bathrooms, couples might want a quiet loop away from group sites, etc.
• Urban boondocking: If doing an overnight in a parking lot (like Walmart or Cracker Barrel), proximity factors are different: you might park under a light for security or away from lights for darkness, near the building for safety or away for quiet. Also consider camera coverage (for security) and avoiding blocking store operations. Always ask permission when possible and park out of main customer areas – being close to an exit or truck area is usually best.

Safety and Privacy

Evaluate any site for how safe you feel and how private it is:

• Privacy:
  Look at sight lines – is your neighbor’s picnic table right next to where your sewer hookup is? In campgrounds, some sites are oddly close. If you value seclusion, select loops known for larger spacing or vegetation between sites (campground reviews or photos help). In dispersed settings, obviously you can pick a spot far from others. If someone else is at the only clearing, it might be polite to move along unless space is clearly separate. No one likes a random rig pulling up next to them in the boonies when there’s plenty of room elsewhere.

• Security (People):
  For boondocking, occasionally folks worry about being alone (or rare bad actors). Trust your gut on a site – if you find signs of sketchy usage (e.g., bullet shells and beer cans all over might indicate it’s a party/shooting spot for locals), you may choose a different spot. If a passerby gives you a bad vibe, it’s okay to relocate. That said, negative incidents are quite rare. Some solo travelers prefer camping near others (safety in numbers), while others feel safer away from any potential curious visitors. Do what makes you comfortable. If near a border or known problematic area, be more cautious (talk to rangers about any concerns – e.g., “Is it safe to camp off Highway so-and-so?”).

• Wildlife safety:
  Check the site for things like bee/wasp nests (under picnic table or in ground – look before you set up). Or lots of animal scat – if there’s bear droppings all over, perhaps skip that spot or be ultra diligent with food. If there’s a dead animal nearby (it happens – e.g., fish carcass on a lake shore), don’t camp next to it; it can attract bears or just stink/rot.

• Environmental hazards:
  Is the site on a slope where rocks could fall or flash flood could hit? Rare but think about it – I avoid camping right at the bottom of a steep loose slope or in obvious flood channels.

• Noise & distance:
  Will you be kept up by road noise or rowdy groups? In some public campgrounds, certain loops are near highways or amphitheaters (evening programs end by 10 though). If light sleeper, maybe avoid the site next to the generator-allowed RV loop if you’re in a tent, etc. For boondocks near towns, sometimes you get noise from distant target practice or ATVs – not unsafe, but consider if it bothers you.

• Cell Signal & emergency access:
  Safety can include ability to call for help. If having some cell service makes you feel better, test your phone at a prospective site before setting up fully. If zero signal and that worries you, you might pick a spot 1 mile back where you got one bar. Or use a booster/antenna (see Connectivity & Communication). Also, can emergency services reach you? If your rig can barely get in, a fire truck or ambulance certainly can’t – so be extra careful with fire and personal health in super-remote, rough spots. I carry a satellite messenger when truly off-grid for that reason.

When you arrive at a new spot, take a moment to walk around and imagine living there for the next chunk of time. Is there a good spot to put out your camp chairs? Where will the sun rise/set? Any potential annoyances visible? This small evaluation pays off. It’s easier to move to another site or adjust placement before you unhitch and unpack everything.

For reserved campgrounds, you often choose a site unseen (except perhaps a tiny map photo). In those cases, reading user reviews or looking at campground maps online can clue you in: people often comment “Site 18 is next to the water spigot and kinda exposed, while 20 is more private by the woods.” On Recreation.gov or campground websites, sometimes they have photos of each site – those are gold for judging space, shade, and slope.

Astra’s perspective would be to weigh all these factors with your priorities in mind – sometimes you compromise one for another (you might accept a slightly unlevel site because it has a killer view and you have enough blocks to manage; or you give up some privacy to be near the riverside). The “ultimate destination” is one that checks the most boxes for you.

Finally, remember you can often change sites if something truly doesn’t work (ask host or ranger if others open; or if dispersed, just find another clearing). It’s better to spend an extra 30 minutes finding a great site than to settle and be unhappy for days.

Now, having picked a suitable site, you need to actually get there and set up. But before we set up camp (which we’ll cover later), let’s ensure you can navigate the roads to your destination and handle seasonal aspects – that’s up next, in Evaluating Road Conditions and Seasonal considerations.

Evaluating Road Conditions

The journey to a great campsite can be half the adventure – or half the battle. Let’s talk about recognizing and handling different road types and conditions en route to your destination, so you don’t end up in a sticky (or muddy) situation.

Types of Roads (Paved, Gravel, Dirt)

Each comes with its own considerations:

• Paved Roads:
  These are highways, state roads, etc., which are usually well-maintained. Navigation systems default to these. But paved in the backcountry can still mean narrow or steep. Key things: watch for switchbacks and posted signs (like “Not advised for trailers” on some mountain roads). If a paved road is especially steep, your engine temp and brakes are concerns (as discussed). Paved roads can also have low bridges – e.g., older park roads or parkways with stone arches that might only clear 11 feet; pay attention to clearance signs. Generally, though, if a road is paved on public lands, it’s meant to be accessible to a wide range of vehicles (with a few exceptions like Zion NP’s switchbacks which require a permit for large RVs or Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier which has length/height limits).

• Gravel Roads:
  Common in rural areas and forests. They can vary from smooth, graded gravel (easy 30 mph driving) to washboard nightmare. Washboard (the rippled effect that makes everything shake) tends to happen when people drive too fast – ironically, sometimes speeding up a bit can reduce the vibration frequency that’s felt, but don’t go so fast that you risk losing control. Let a little air out of your tires to soften the ride (not too much – maybe down to 80% of highway PSI – and re-inflate later). Gravel often means dust: be considerate if someone’s in front or behind – give spacing. Dust can coat your air filter and house if you leave windows open; perhaps close up and use vents.

• Gravel roads can hide sharp rocks – have a spare tire and patch kit. Slower driving reduces the chance of punctures or flying rocks damaging undercarriage. Also, on two-lane gravel roads, when passing oncoming vehicles, slow down and move right to avoid thrown rocks damaging windshields.

• Dirt/Clay Roads:
  These can be fine when dry, but muddy mess when wet. A hard-packed dirt road can turn into what’s called “gumbo” (thick, tire-coating mud) after rain – impassable without 4x4 or even then. If your route includes dirt roads and rain is forecast, have a plan B. Also note clay soils can be super slick (like driving on grease) when even slightly wet – often found in Southwest or Great Plains. If you must drive in mud, use 4x4 low, keep momentum but not speed, and avoid sudden moves. If it’s too deep and sloppy, sometimes the best call is wait it out a day – many clay roads dry quickly under sun.

• Dirt roads may also have ruts from previous vehicles. High ruts mean your chassis might scrape the crown. Try to drive with one wheel on the center high point and one in rut (if shallow enough) to avoid bottoming out. If ruts are deep and fixed (dried that way), sometimes it’s better to straddle them with wheels on each side if width allows.

• Sand Tracks:
  Already covered in beach section, but desert tracks with deep sand require similar technique – lower tire pressure, moderate constant speed. If not comfortable, avoid – getting stuck miles from help is bad. On flip side, some dirt roads become corrugated rock or ledges in Utah/Arizona slickrock areas – that’s more like off-roading; evaluate if your rig can handle (usually best left to shorter wheelbase 4x4 vehicles).

Road Suitability and Rig Compatibility

This is about matching your rig to the road.

• Low Clearance & Overhangs:
  If you have extended rear overhang, watch dips (like entering dry streambeds) – take them at an angle if possible so one rear corner at a time goes through instead of the whole rear dragging. If in doubt, stop and inspect – it’s fine to get out with a flashlight at night to check a questionable rut or rock. It sure beats ripping a plumbing line off (seen it happen).

• Width of Road:
  Many forest roads are one-lane. Be prepared to yield or back up